| TonyM | -- 06-14-2011 @ 9:53 AM |
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I am interested in buying a 1937 Ford Fordor (85hp). What problems should I look for and avoid? What are the Red Flags for the 1937 Ford? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks TM TonyM. Calumet City, Illinois, USA
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-14-2011 @ 10:47 AM |
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Tony, This goes for any collector car, not just '37 Fords: Find the best car, not the best bargain. The best car will save you money and frustration, the bargain will cost you dearly. When you find the best, don't feel stupid for paying the price. You won't be sorry. Alan
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| supereal | -- 06-14-2011 @ 11:51 AM |
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I heartily agree with Alan. Probably number one on your list should be looking for any signs of rust, particularly in and along the lower edges of the body panels, and under the floor mats, as well as the mat in the trunk. It is very difficult to locate an old cars with zero rust. but extensive damage will be very expensive to remedy, unless you are an experienced body man, particularly for a car that isn't among the rarer models. We have a '38 tudor in our shop now that the owner loves, but has already paid a fortune in body work before the investment in a rebuilt engine. Alan is a '38 fan, and he and I differ regarding the desireability of the cable brakes that are also a feature of the '37. If in bad shape, they can be a real obstacle in restoration.
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| doning | -- 06-14-2011 @ 1:07 PM |
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I too own a 1937 Ford fordor 85 HP standard touring sedan. One thing with this year, and also with the '38's is finding parts. Most items are available through the reproduction companies but other items are not. I found most of my parts through ebay and through local car swap meets. The Hershey, PA show is a good place to start. Also, in my opinion, they are not the easiest car to work on. My advise to you would be to purchase the 1937 Ford Book through the Early Ford V8 Club web-site and study, study, study! The nice reward from these cars is that there not many of the 1937's around so when your driving down the road with one you get a ton of waves!
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| trjford8 | -- 06-14-2011 @ 1:35 PM |
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Along with all the other good advice good sheetmetal should be at the top of the list. Check the area of the tool tray and the back panel below the decklid. If it's original and solid that is a good sign for the rest of the car. If the tool tray is rusty or shows signs of an obvious repair that indicates you need to check all the floor panels. Check the edges of the fenders for repair such as tubing or rebar welded in to strengthen the fender bead. Also check the bottoms of the doors for repairs. Take someone with you to look at the car. Preferably someone with the knowledge of Ford V-8s or someone with knowledge of body work and metal repair. A second set of eyes will see things that you may miss. Be critical and don't jump too soon on the first car you see. Also check around for prices to make sure it is priced fairly. It's a buyer's market and you hold the cards because you have the money. Your first purchase should be a happy experience and you do not want "buyer's remorse".
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| Stroker | -- 06-14-2011 @ 4:17 PM |
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I concur with everything previously posted. As a 50's "Hot Rodder", we considered 37's & 38's "Ugly Ducklings". I drove the worst of the worst, a 38 Wagon, and had to put up with lots-o-termite jokes, etc. Because of their undesirability, many became fodder for the circle tracks-Jalopy Derby on the left coast, NASCAR in the southeast. The point of all of this is that no one really cared about saving them, and therefore no one was willing to make reproduction parts, as Deuces, 34's, 36-3 window's 39's, 40 Deluxes etc. were what everyone wanted. The end result was that these cars were neglected by the aftermarket folk, and so the only stuff that was available for restoration were NOS pickings from backwater rural Ford garages that didn't care about "inventory turns". So...You will find body parts difficult to find, which means that you want to acquire the most complete, "cherry" 37 you can locate. Other than that, and of course Super's and Alan's differences regarding brakes, (personally, I HATE the old cable brakes),37's share most of the good early Ford stuff that makes our hearts beat.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-14-2011 @ 5:59 PM |
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OK now, you guys are ganging up on me and my cable brakes! Only goes to show that you aren't familiar with the system enough to know that Ford almost got it right, but missed the biggest factor to improve the mechanicals. Floaters had to be offered by aftermarket companies because old Henry was too bullheaded to give an inch. With floaters, the cables work out to be the easiest to maintain, the most reliable, and stop as well or better than any Ford of the 1940's. No leaky wheel cylinders No spongy pedal No pedal to the floor No brake fluid spills No worry with "Steel From Pedal To Wheel" Alan
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| TonyM | -- 06-14-2011 @ 6:35 PM |
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Thanks to all who replied. doning: Thanks. I have the EFV-8 1937 Ford Book and have studied it. That's the way to become an informed consumer. I also have the EFV-8 1938-1939 Ford Book just in case I change my mind in the event that I find a deal I can't walk away from. These books are great! I am also a EFV-8 member. trjford8: thanks for the tip on the tool pit area and lower panel; that is the kind of stuff that is good to know. Have found advice that said to look for rust out at the frame -to- body area aft of the X-member and forward of the rear wheels. It is probably best to hold out for a really good car than to buy a project as a couple members have suggested. I have done some market research on the 1937-39 Fordors, so I think I have a rudimentary feel of the pricing for these cars. I have Hemmings, Old Car Report and the internet. Again, thanks to all who have responded. TonyM. TonyM. Calumet City, Illinois, USA
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