| Gary M. | -- 11-16-2009 @ 5:07 PM |
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So it looks like I need a new clutch. I have the 39,40 engine and chassis repair manual which gives you a quick,step by step disassembly instruction. Im not sure if maybe they might have missed a few steps or forgot to throw in a few safety hints,being that I have never done a clutch on a car this old.Im also not sure which other parts I should replace besides the clutch.I wouldnt want to do it all over due to not replacing everything that needs to be replaced.Is Macs a reputable place to buy my replacement parts or do they sell foreign junk? Also,is this a good time to replace the rear main seal? Any hints or instructions you guys can give me before I start this job to make it go smooth and safe? Thanks for sharing your experience...
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-17-2009 @ 6:45 AM |
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by your reference to the 39/40 manual I will assume that you have an engine from one of those years. Changing a clutch is a lot of work, but not too hard if you have a few tools. You can either pull the engine or pull the rear end and trans. Some choices HUH!! If you do not mind working on your back then pull the rear, or if your car has not been apart or restored pull the engine, some of the aspects of pulling the rear of a car that has not been apart are a challeging. Personally having done this lately, I would pull the engine. You have to remove the oil pan anyway and this is just an easier way to do it. Also gives you a chance to look inside the engine.
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| TomO | -- 11-17-2009 @ 8:10 AM |
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I would also pull the engine to replace the clutch. It is difficult to remove the pan with the engine in the car and your flywheel should be resurfaced. I don't have much faith in parts from Mac's. Fort Wayne Clutch may have a clutch and pressure plate for your car, if not they can rebuild yours. Here is there web site. www.fortwayneclutch.com As long as you have it apart, I would replace the throw out bearing and check the bushings in the clutch release cross shaft, replace the bushings and the cross shaft if there is noticeable play. Play in this area affect the clutch adjustment. I would check the flywheel for run out with a dial indicator before removing it and after re-installing it. A little run out can cause serious vibration and can be caused by debris on the flywheel mounting surface when refacing or mounting it. After you install the pressure plate and clutch on the flywheel, put a straight edge across the pressure plate and measure the distance to the release fingers. All 3 of them should be the same distance. If not call the pressure plate supplier and have him fix it. Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-17-2009 @ 8:16 AM |
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Also, replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel. It is either a sold bronze bushing, or a ball bearing. If you don't have a puller, fill the cavity behind the bearing with grease and insert a punch or rod that fills the bearing opening, and whack it with a hammer. That will force the bearing out. We prefer to remover the floorboards (which you have to do, anyway), and remove the transmission upward, using the shift lever, if you have a top loader. Be sure you order, or have access, to a pilot tool to center the disk when you bolt the clutch together.
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| Gary M. | -- 11-17-2009 @ 3:50 PM |
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There is nothing in the book about pulling the oil pan to remove the clutch.If I chose to push back the rear axle to remove the clutch,why would I have to pull the pan ?
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| old1936ford | -- 11-17-2009 @ 4:23 PM |
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You will need to remove the pan to resurface the flywheel. Don't forget to order gaskets for the pan.
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| Tom/SC | -- 11-17-2009 @ 6:41 PM |
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Gary,look for someone in the EV8 roster in your area who has replaced a clutch in a closed driveshaft Ford. You need help and experience to do the job safely and correctly. You have already recieved some good advice here, but having an experienced extra set of eyes and hands will make the job more successful. Tom
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| TomO | -- 11-18-2009 @ 7:54 AM |
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Gary, if your car still has the 9 inch clutch, you will find it very difficult to remove the pressure plate bolts with the oil pan in place. You should have your flywheel refaced to give your new clutch the best surface to work with. Your present clutch is slipping and has probably glazed the surface of the flywheel. If your flywheel is glazed, you will probably have clutch chatter problems. Tom
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| Gary M. | -- 11-18-2009 @ 3:39 PM |
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Correct me if im wrong but,it looks like I would have to take the whole floor apart to push the tranny back because it looks like there is no room to move things backwards due to the small hole where the shifter comes through the tunnel.I guess pulling the engine is the best way.Would I still have to pull the oil pan before getting the engine out of the car? Thanks again...
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| TomO | -- 11-19-2009 @ 8:49 AM |
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Gary, You will have to remove the floor boards on your 39 to remove either the engine or the rear end. There are just a few screws holding the floor boards in place. You will not have to remove the oil pan to remove the engine. You should remove the hood, radiator, intake manifold, exhaust pipes, starter and steady rods to remove the engine. Rent or borrow a good engine hoist and attach the lift chain securely to the engine. Have a buddy help you with the removal so you don't damage the paint on the car. Make sure that the engine is properly supported when you remove the pan, pressure plate, clutch and flywheel. Do not try to work on the engine while it is supported by the hoist. Tom
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-20-2009 @ 8:10 AM |
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I would like to add a little to what TomO told you--he is right on except he probably forgot about the use of an engine stand--DO UNDER NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE MOUNT A FLATHEAD ENGINE BY THE CAST INTERGRELL BELL HOUSING- IT WILL BREAK AND FALL ON YOU!! You can purchase/borrow one that mounts to the exhaust manifold bolts, this is the only way to go. 49 up engines can be mounted to a modern type engine stand
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| Stroker | -- 11-20-2009 @ 9:53 AM |
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I guess I've been pretty lucky, as I've been hanging pre 8BA flatties on engine stands by their bell housings for about half a century. I do believe however, that the advice to use the exhaust manifold "gennie Ford Dealer" style mount is much safer, as there is less overhang, and it makes working on the clutch and flywheel possible without placing the engine on a bench. It is now possible to purchase reproductions of manifold style engine stand adapter from various flathead suppliers. Or, you can do like some of us knuckle draggers did, and simply roll the motor around on the floor (wooden floors are the best).
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