| fkunzendorf | -- 06-09-2011 @ 4:06 PM |
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Hello I'm overhauling my Ford 48 flathead. I changed clutch, release bearing, etc...but when I release the pedal, the car trembles...What would be wrong? Should I use a diaphragm clutch? Tks
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| supereal | -- 06-09-2011 @ 4:27 PM |
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Some clutch chatter is normal. You can reduce it by replacing the front and rear motor mounts, and by being sure that the rear springs and shackles are in good condition. Also, be sure that your idle engine speed is correct. Welcome to the reality of old Ford Problems! I assume that you scoured the flywheel surface, and made sure the surface of the plate was clean and smooth.
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| fkunzendorf | -- 06-10-2011 @ 4:32 AM |
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Thank you very much...
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| 35topdown | -- 06-11-2011 @ 9:18 AM |
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The most common problem on the Long 3 lever pressure plate is the lever adjustment. I owned a clutch shop for 30 years and saw hundreds of these.According to most clutch specs the levers have to be adjusted to within .040" of each other. We aimed for .005" at our shop. There are several different levers, but only 2 different methods of adjustment. Some have adjustment screws on the ends of the levers and others are adjusted with little shims that go under the yokes that are bolted to the cover. The yokes also have pins and bushings in them that can wear allowing the levers to be uneven. In either case the pressure plate has to be removed in order to adjust it. However, you can check the setting while it's still bolted to the flywheel. The lever height is checked from the flywheel surface to the lever tip, so you have to rig up something to accurately measure it. Any good clutch shop can set the levers for you, but they are hard to find. The guys at Brake & Clutch Supply in Waco, TX can do a good job for you. Other things that I have found causing chatter are flywheels cut on a lathe, worn release bearing quill and collar, bent clutch disk, loose hub in the disk, friction material, grease on disk, crank end play, u-joints, rear spring mounts, rear end wear, etc. A diaphragm type pressure plate is usually smoother, but they have to be matched with the clutch disk thickness and release bearing. You need to make sure the diaphragm does not touch the quill when the clutch is released. The older Fords used a larger dia. quill and the later diaphragm type used a smaller qiull. I know this is a lot of info, but it's only a drop in the bucket of what I could tell you about clutch problems.
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| supereal | -- 06-11-2011 @ 10:47 AM |
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From time to time, we use an "old timer's" fix. We place the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free, then loosen the bolts that hold the clutch housing to the engine a small bit, and run the car in gear while exercising the clutch, while retightening the clutch housing bolts. This will help correct any small misalignment of the transmission input shaft and the pressure plate. Just a few thousanths off center can create a lot of chatter as the pressure plate tries to center the disk. The disk springs take up some of the chatter, but usually not enough to cure it. Always be careful when running a car with the wheels off the ground. When installing a pressure plate, it is very important to tighten the bolts a bit at a time, in sequence, to avoid warping the pressure plate case.
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| TomO | -- 06-12-2011 @ 9:27 AM |
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You should also place wedges to hold the arms in the released position when tightening the pressure plate. Make sure all 3 wedges are the same size and are positioned to exert the same pressure on the arms. Tom
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