| buford8 | -- 06-04-2011 @ 6:05 AM |
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Anyone on this site have experience with a pusher 6 volt cooling fan on a '40 Ford? My car runs fine and doesn't overheat until the temp here on the desert reaches above 95-100 degrees F.The car runs cool enough until I attempt to go up the mountain (7 percent grade) or drive it slowly, like in a parade or heavy traffic. I am thinking of adding a 16" electric pusher cooling fan or maybe removing the mechanical fan and putting a 16" puller fan on the radiator. I see there are 6 volt fans available but they say to add an alternator because the 30 amp generator won't keep the battery charged enough to accomodate the extra drain from the electric fan. Any suggestions? Thanks, Buford8.
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| trjford8 | -- 06-04-2011 @ 7:51 AM |
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Before you go to an electric fan, make sure your radiator is good and clean(no blocked tubes, etc,).If you do not have a set of Skip's pumps or Fryers's pumps, I would upgrade to those water pumps.They do make a difference. A pusher fan can actuially block some air. With your 40 make sure all the correct air deflectors are in place around the sides of the radiator and below the radiator. An aftermarket deflector on top of the grille may also help to keep the air going through the radiator. Before you buy the grille deflector try a piece of cardboard on top of the grille to see if it helps. This message was edited by trjford8 on 6-4-11 @ 7:52 AM
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| supereal | -- 06-04-2011 @ 2:06 PM |
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It is true that electric cooling fans draw a lot of current. They require a relay to switch them, preferably one with a thermostatic control. Try Scott's Fans (800/272-3267) for information. Installing an alternator won't help much, as the engine doesn't turn them fast enough to provide much, if any, more current than a good generator. Using them for parades, etc, won't run your battery down to any extent. It should be remembered that "pusher" fans do restrict air flow somewhat when they are placed in front of the radiator core.
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| buford8 | -- 06-05-2011 @ 5:39 AM |
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The radiator on my '40 is perfect, I have "Skips" pumps, all the metal shrouds are in place, No indication of exhaust in the coolant and I don't think a metal deflector at the grille will help much as this thing will overheat when standing still with the engine running slow or at fast idle. Just seems like an airflow problem...it is fine on flat ground at 50 MPH. Thanks for the input...Karl.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-05-2011 @ 10:32 AM |
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Buford, The topside of the grille requires a flat plate to close off air access over the tank instead of under and through the radiator. This will help on the long uphill grades. A radiator that appears perfect on the outside may very well have interior blockage to inhibit the flow. A generator will be pulling almost continuously to power the additional amperage required by an electric fan. This requires horsepower, and in turn, generates more heat. In most cases, this is a lose/lose situation. Parade or stop sign overheating is a common occurrence, and can sometimes be addressed by adjustments of the radiator location closer to the fan. As it appears that you are not overly concerned about originality, a great help in this area will be had with the construction of a fan shroud. Virtually all modern cars have these, and they make any fan an efficient mover of air. Alan
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| Brendan | -- 06-05-2011 @ 10:52 AM |
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i had a 65 chebby pickup that i had a electric fan on. it worked good when it was new.but as it got older i think it slowed down a bit. i took it off and the biggest fan that would fit in the fan shroud and a fan clutch, it would idle all day long at 180 on a hot day. Can't spell my way out of a paper bag!
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| supereal | -- 06-05-2011 @ 11:11 AM |
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I'm not sure of your definition of "perfect" when dscribing your radiator. I've seen some really beautiful examples on the outside that were badly limed inside. A coating of lime as little as 1/32" can reduce efficiency as much as 40%. When I bought my '47 years ago, it would peg the gauge before I could get around the block. The guy who sold it to me said "it always did that", and "the gauge is not working". I discovered that the flow was very poor, in spite of an outward appearance that looked fine. When I subbed a different radiator, all was well, and I can run in traffic with no fear of boiling over. You have covered most of the other factors, so not much is left except the radiator, itself. Old cars often sacfificed air flow to style, which put cooling in jeopardy. If you haven't already, be sure to check the actual coolant temp with a thermometer in the radiator filler to confirm the condition.
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| buford8 | -- 06-06-2011 @ 5:02 AM |
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Thanks for all the input guys, I had the radiator tanks removed and the core rodded, it is very clean. Don't forget 100+ degtrees is common here on the desert...I will look into making up a shroud for the fan. As you can see from the photos the car is not entirely stock, just personalized to suit my wife and myself... Thanks again...Karl.
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| supereal | -- 06-06-2011 @ 10:13 AM |
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FYI: Rodding can get out the chunks, but the real culprit is the thin lime coating inside the tubes. Most old cores can't withstand the chemical bath necessary to clean them. That is one reason once plentiful radiator shops have all but disappeared. Many radiators were filled with tap water over the years, causing loss of efficiency. Only distilled or demineralized water should be used. I regularly drive my '47 in 90 degree plus temps with no heating and standard pumps.
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