Topic: starting problem 1940


old1936ford    -- 11-15-2009 @ 5:10 PM
  The 36 has been running great. Still a little grinding but I found a transmission guy that's going to look at it. Now for the starting problem.
In the AM I pump it twice & she starts instantly. Runs just a little rough for a min or so then runs well. The next two or three times it will start instantly. Then it will get a little hard to start. May take 2 or 3 secs. I also can smell a little gas like it is flooding. I took the carb off & soaked it. The float seemed work fine. Plugs looked OK. I use MMO in the gas & oil.
36 with a 40 v-8,Electronic Ign. 12 volt. Elec fuel pump. Any Ideas? After cleaning the carb. it did the same thing.
Thanks, Joe


trjford8    -- 11-15-2009 @ 8:22 PM
  Joe, if you are running an electric fuel pump full time it may be putting out too much pressure to the carb and causing flooding. I would look at putting a pressure regulator in line as the carb only needs about 2-3 lbs pressure.


supereal    -- 11-16-2009 @ 9:10 AM
  More often than not, electronic ignition systems on old cars produce that kind of problem. They tend to be heat sensitive. If a car comes to us with an electronic ignition conversion and starting problems, almost without fail, we know just where to look. It is a mystery to me why anyone spends time and money on them when a properly set up stock system will run for years without problems.


old1936ford    -- 11-16-2009 @ 12:51 PM
  I have a regulator & it is set for 2#. Runs fine most of the time. Fule line is 5 in above the engine so I ruled out vaper lock. Any other ideas.


old1936ford    -- 11-16-2009 @ 1:01 PM
  Previous owner had duel points on the car. Couldn't keep the points adj so I changed to Elec. It has run well for about a year. Just started having to crank for a coupble secs. That dosen't bother me to much BUT the smell of gas is not good. It dosen't even have to be real hot to seam like it's flooding out. Past summer I ran 1000 miles in 90 to 100 heat. No problems. I'm going to soak the carb again & put in a new needle valve.
Wish I had an old dist. The old Fords ran with them back then. No reason why they can't run with them now.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Joe


supereal    -- 11-17-2009 @ 8:20 AM
  If there is a problem keeping the points in a stock distributor in adjustment, almost always the bushings and/or the shaft are badly worn, or the points are inferior quality.


TomO    -- 11-17-2009 @ 9:18 AM
  Which manufacturer and model carburetor do you have, Ford or Stromberg?

Ford carburetors may leak gas at the power valve gasket.

Tom


old1936ford    -- 11-17-2009 @ 1:50 PM
  When I had the carb (model 59 Ford) apart I filled the bowl with gas & let it sit for about 6 hours. The tissue paper I had under the carb did not have any signs of gas leakage. A year or two ago I replaced a bad power valve with a new one using a new gasket. Up until now I have never smelled gas or had any problem with starting. It always has run just a little rough after starting but with a couple pumps it smothes out. It's cool here today 60's. I just started the TAXI. It started instantly no gas smell. I am going to run it again this week end before I replace the valve in the carb. Any other ideas?
Thanks, Joe


TomO    -- 11-18-2009 @ 8:05 AM
  The two most common causes of flooding with the Ford carburetor are the power valve gasket and the float level.

When the carburetor is cold, the gasket may not leak as fast as when the carburetor is at normal engine operating temperature. When i do the leak test, I also look very carefully at the gasket for signs of gas.

Tom


old1936ford    -- 11-18-2009 @ 3:21 PM
  Thanks, I will check out both. I just received a rebuild kit. I will repace the gasket & check the float level. I just got back from a 300 mile tour & my gas milage was sameas always 15.1 MPG. The plugs looked real good. A light brown. I'm more inclined to think the power valve gasket may be the problem. We'll see.
Thanks again,
Joe


supereal    -- 11-20-2009 @ 11:41 AM
  Before you start taking thing apart, determine whether your problem is fuel or ignition. Working on the wrong one can complicate finding the actual cause.


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