| Ron Crouch | -- 04-06-2011 @ 9:56 PM |
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I have an original 1936 Ford Sedan with Flathead v-8. What weight engine oil is recommended also can you use the synthetic oils. Also what type of gear oil is used in the manual transmission, steering gear box and rear end. What grease is used to lube chassis and water pumps?
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| supereal | -- 04-07-2011 @ 10:04 AM |
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Ron: Many of us use 20W-50 oil for seasonal driving. Castrol is a well known brand for that weight. Some get along fine with synthetic, but it does tend to leak around old seals and rings. The transmission and rear end will do fine or either 80-90, 90-140, straight 140. We buy ours at Walmart. For chassis lube, our preference is for Mystik JT-6. It is a waterproof grease. You can use it for the waterpumps, but don't apply more than one pump of your gun, or you will put grease into the coolant. There are as many opinions regarding oil, grease, etc, as there are owners. Given the high cost of syhthetics, you can do more beneficial regular oil changes for less money, a very good practice on cars without oil filters. The steering gear suffers much from exhaust heat. Your best bet is to use a heavy gear oil, such as 140. Many have put chassis lube in the box, but that will increase wear. All early Fords tend to leak oil down into the switch at the end of the column. If yours does this, there is a modification to the end plate that will help.
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| Ron Crouch | -- 04-07-2011 @ 9:46 PM |
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Thanks for the info I will use your recommendations.
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| bbook | -- 06-05-2011 @ 10:16 PM |
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Supereal: What is the modification to the end plate of which you speak? I have a '36 1.5 ton that the gear lube runs right out the bottom of the housing. There is a metal washer and a soft washer (unknown material) under the end plate, but with the light switch rod running through it, I dont' see how it can keep the gear lube from running out.
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| bbook | -- 06-05-2011 @ 11:27 PM |
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I couldn't find a modified end plate for an early V8, but did find an aftermarket part for the Model A that includes a tube attached to the end plate, running above the oil level (Part #A3568-T). Online pictures look just like my truck's end plate. One online part dealer says it fits '29-'36 and others say '29-'31. Any idea if this will work?
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| supereal | -- 06-06-2011 @ 10:17 AM |
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Can't be sure it will, but your end plate can be modified by brazing a tube to it that will reach above the oil level. Putting the switch at the bottom of the column certainly wasn't one of Ford's "better ideas". The aftermarket tubes aren't expensive, so you may wish to obtain one to compare with yours.
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| keith oh | -- 06-06-2011 @ 1:06 PM |
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I have used 5W30 in my flathead since it became avialable. Research shows that 90% of engine wear is in the first couple of min. after starting so the 5 W gets there faster for quicker lubrication. When starting a cold engine I leave the ignition off, do not touch the throttle, and turn it over for 10 to 15 seconds or until you see oil pressure indication then go ahead and start it. I'll not take credit for this, there was a long research article on it, I think it was on Fordbarn a while back.
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| bbook | -- 06-06-2011 @ 11:09 PM |
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Thanks, Supereal. I will acquire the aftermarket part and give it a try, as you are correct that they aren't expensive. If it is a no go, at least now I understand how to make the fix.
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| Brendan | -- 06-09-2011 @ 5:26 AM |
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i also don't step on the clutch until i see oil pressure after starting Can't spell my way out of a paper bag!
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| kenburke | -- 06-23-2011 @ 8:10 PM |
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Could someone provide more info concerning that modern oils (Sm & SN) that are sold today lack phosphorous and therefore are not good for tappet engines.
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| supereal | -- 06-24-2011 @ 6:20 AM |
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The additive, ZDDP, was reduced in oils because they shortened the life of the cat converters. The zinc is important for modern engines with high valve train pressure, and for initial startup after assembly or overhaul. For our old flatheads, it is less important. Genuine Ford camshafts almost never wear flat, as do many modern cams. Any changes, such as unleaded gas, etc, gives the fast buck boys a chance to sell high profit additives. Your flathead will be fine. If you remained unconvinced, use Sh*ll Rotella oil. It is designed for diesel use, and contains lots of high pressure additives. I prefer Castrol 20-50, myself. Your flathead will be fine.
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| kenburke | -- 06-25-2011 @ 12:09 PM |
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Thanks Super, another question on a similar product to Sh*ll. Ch###on sells DELO another diesel style oil? Yes /no / maybe?? I do not have any second thoughts on Castrol. I thought besides zink there was an issue with the lack of phosphorus in todays oils? Thanks Ken Burke
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| supereal | -- 06-25-2011 @ 1:46 PM |
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Ken: I'm not familiar with that brand. We buy Rotella by the drum, so I use it when the Castrol runs out. I just bought a full case of 20-50 for about $42 last week. That is enough for two changes, plus a couple of extra quarts. If you use Rotella, it comes in 4 quart jugs, OK for flatheads without a filter, but buy an extra quart if you have one. Diesel oil formulations contain more than enough additives for your car. Diesels run a 17-20 to one compression, so the high stress additives are necessary for them. In general, all brand name oils have what you need. These old engines survived for decades on non-detergent oils with little or no additives, so they should last longer than most of us with today's products and their ingredients.
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| BERTHA | -- 07-03-2011 @ 5:20 PM |
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http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrf.aspx
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