| danliveshere | -- 03-29-2011 @ 7:04 AM |
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I recently bought a can of POR15 Ford green engine enamel. The colour appears very grey. Anybody know if the POR15 ford green is the right colour, or better yet can somebody post a pic of a motor painted in the correct shade of green for a 35. Thanks dan.(the motor is actually a 38 motor with CI heads and inlet, so the whole motor needs to be painted). I have a 35 motor to do later this year so I would like to get the right 35 green colour. Thanks Dan.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-29-2011 @ 11:21 AM |
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Did you stir paint, or take to a paint store and ask them to shake it up for you,my local store will do this for me, and paint a sample on a piece of metal, and and wait till it drys. and see what color it is, if is not what you want send it back, BILL HIRSCH in NJ 1-800-828 2061 has all kinds of correct colors, for many makes of automobiles, ASLO www.hirschauto.com I do not know if that POR 15 is for engine,s I thought only for chassis and similar jobs, my 3 cents worth 37 RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-29-11 @ 11:23 AM
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| 51f1 | -- 03-29-2011 @ 12:42 PM |
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POR 15 is a brand name used for a multitude of products. Richard
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| kubes40 | -- 03-29-2011 @ 1:15 PM |
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Personally I like the stuff Nacewicz sells the best. I've used his and Hirsch's and I'd say Nacewicz's paint shade is closet to authentic. Picture attached for what good it will do you. This message was edited by kubes40 on 3-30-11 @ 6:12 AM
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| supereal | -- 03-29-2011 @ 2:12 PM |
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I wouldn't use POR as an engine paint unless you are able to completely remove any oil film. Otherwise, you can expect checking and peeling. A good grade of actual engine paint is a better choice. Two good brands have been mentioned above, and Eastwood is also a reliable source. POR is expensive, and tricky to properly apply. You would need both a primer and topcoat to create a lasting finish.
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| 42ford | -- 03-29-2011 @ 8:32 PM |
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the correct color does look a lot like a grey green when it is first painted. The Ford engine green was not a bright green
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| wrosenkrans | -- 03-30-2011 @ 6:54 AM |
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The Ford engine green seems to have come in a variety of shades over the years. On the late Model T's it was called Moleskin and was a very brownish,greyish, green (still some controversy on the what it actually looked like), on the Model A's I've seen everything from a very greyish green to a dark olive, almost the same variety on the V-8's. Bottom-line to me seems to be that there was alot of batch variability in the paint used and the effects of time, but they were never a bright green. Wayne & Barb '42 Super De Luxe Tudor
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| danliveshere | -- 04-02-2011 @ 6:43 AM |
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OK, THANKS TO ALL THE REPLIES. GOT ENOUGH COURAGE TO PAINT IT. LOOKS OK, ONCE IT IS ALL REASSEMBLED I'M SURE IT WILL BE NICE.
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| 42ford | -- 04-02-2011 @ 8:00 AM |
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It sure looks like the color I have seen on Fords
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| Stroker | -- 04-02-2011 @ 9:15 AM |
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Just curious...I've never seen a cylinder head with the slanted "boss" like the one on the left side front of yours. I'm sure others have, am wondering what it was intended for.
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| MG | -- 04-02-2011 @ 11:44 AM |
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danliveshere, Nice job! Did you brush or spray the paint? Are the stud nuts supposed to be painted??? This message was edited by MG on 4-2-11 @ 2:05 PM
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| Stroker | -- 04-02-2011 @ 3:03 PM |
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I tend to trust most, what I have observed or experienced. All the stock engines I have had the opportunity to witness had the head studs/nuts painted, as most were Meyer-Welch "Blue Ribbon" West-Coast factory-approved rebuilds. The first unmolested brand-spanking-new flathead I remember seeing was a 49 8BA on the showroom floor. The capscrews that held the head on were painted. When I assembled the 59A in the 70's that currently dwells in my 38, I painted the engine just before installing the accessories. I just assumed this was correct, as it was so common in "service replacement" installations. The qualified historians amongst us have enlightened me to the fact that prior to the 8BA, Ford masked the block, and painted the heads separately prior to installation. Thus, the studs, nuts and washers should not be painted engine color. So....I guess I'll remove the nuts, one at a time, and wire brush the ends of the studs, which should make my 38-dressed, aluminum intake, Chandler-Groves equipped 59A look a little more presentable, even though it is a "driver", not a Concourse Queen. Did anyone notice that danliveshere's car is right-hand drive?
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| MG | -- 04-02-2011 @ 3:55 PM |
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Stroker, re: right-hand drive..... Given that 'danliveshere' lives in Queensland Australia....... I'd still like to know about the boss on the engine head though.
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| danliveshere | -- 04-03-2011 @ 5:23 AM |
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MG I used a brush to paint the block. Had been told the POR 15 engine enamel is hard to spray. Can't tell you about the boss, I assume it's for an electic temp gauge. Our Australian motors were assembled in Canada. I wasn't aware that the nuts were not painted engine colour. This 81a will be going into a 35 phaeton. I bought a phaeton in very poor condition and while sourcing parts for the build, I met up with an old friend I hadn't seen for a long time. He offered me parts to build another phaeton. So one will have the 81a on a 36 frame, 36 steering box and trans. The other will have the 35 motor and transmission. Have most parts required, just starting the long long long journey to put them together. Both cars need complete floors rockers tunnel inner rear guard replacement. So one won't be very original but see what I'm starting with......!!
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