| ellis734 | -- 03-26-2011 @ 7:57 AM |
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I have a 38 Ford 2 door deluxe. I'm trying to replace the oil pan gasket with the engine still in the car. I've got the pan broke free, but can't get get it out. It's hung up on the crank and fly wheel. Any advice?
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| supereal | -- 03-26-2011 @ 10:21 AM |
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You will have to unbolt the front wishbone at the center ball and lower it enough to get the pan out. The starter should be removed and, in some cases, the exhaust crossover pipe has to be dropped. Be sure to soak the rope seals in oil for a few hours. Overnight is best. If you use four headless bolts placed in the block to guide the pan into place, it makes the job much easier, and will help hold the pan gasket in place.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 03-26-2011 @ 3:39 PM |
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in addition to what Superreal has said it is often necessary to rotate the crankshaft to get clearance to remove the pan-it usually hangs up on the first crank throw because of the tie rod and drag link- you remove the pan by sliding back and lowering at the same time
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-26-2011 @ 6:51 PM |
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Ellis, I assume that you want to remove the pan to clean out accumulated sludge. While doing so, be careful to not bump the oil pickup, and It should be checked for looseness before you replace the pan. Prepare the pan rim, flattening out any waviness. Working from below, you may find that more than just the four locating studs that Super advised are handy to keep the gasket aligned properly on replacement. Tightening the pan bolts more than snug will deform the pan and create leaks rather than sealing them. Correct trimming of the rope seal is crucial. Too much rope is just as bad as too little. Alan
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-27-2011 @ 6:12 AM |
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when you get the pan off, would be a good time for a look see, the timing gears for any wear on the teeth, and R and R the oil pump,check for any wear, or clogged screen, I replace mine with a later model NOS MELLING higher volume oil pump, And generally looking the insides of the bottom of the engine, also run a magnet though the oil and sludge and check for any metal particles, just looking for anything that might happen in the future, this is my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN
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| TomO | -- 03-27-2011 @ 9:24 AM |
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You will probably have to jack up the engine about 3-4 inches to drop the pan. You may also have to turn the crankshaft to get the counterweights out of the way. The cork seal at the rear main is usually a big pain to get it to stay in place when the engine is in the car. Tom
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| supereal | -- 03-27-2011 @ 11:11 AM |
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To add to the other advice: be sure to hammer any of the oil pan mounting bolt holes flat, as most are deformed from overtightening. Be careful about trimming the rope seals. They need to be compressed into the grooves when the pan is tightened. Using a round tool, such as a hammer, they can be rolled into the holder. A dab of sealer on the ends will help prevent leaks. As for the oil pump pickup, we braze the tube in place, as it is pressed into place, and it isn't rare for them to come loose. Depending upon the model, it is sometimes necessary to drop the drag link and/or the tie rod for clearance. Removing and reinstalling the pan with the engine in the vehicle is one of my least favorite jobs. Usually, when we jack up the engine, we place a block under the pan. With the pan out, that becomes a problem. If you are working on jack stands, a "cherry picker" hoist hooked to the chains used to pull an engine can be used, but be careful about shifting the weight on the stands. Be sure to inspect the shank of the crank pulley to be sure that there isn't a wear groove that will interfere with the seal. You may wish to consider a one piece front seal. C&G has them on page 80 of their catalog as B-6700-R. This message was edited by supereal on 3-27-11 @ 11:22 AM
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