| Leonard | -- 03-21-2011 @ 5:35 PM |
|
My '34 generator cutoff/regulator is an oblong unit(as opposed to round) and has a Ford script stamped on the cover. The generator is Ford with a 3rd brush and only l wire to the cutoff/regulator. The '34 wiring diagram shows the '34 to be a regulator as opposed to '33,'35, and '36 being a cutoff. If my '34 has a regulator shouldn't the generator have 2 wires exiting it? May I have your comments? Thank you, Leonard
|
|
| supereal | -- 03-21-2011 @ 5:46 PM |
|
If you have a three brush generator, what you are seeing is a cutout. A regulator is used only with the two brush generator.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-21-2011 @ 5:55 PM |
|
Is it a pass car, or emergency vehicle ? FORD normally used the cutout,from MODEL T'S with generators, up to 38 FORDS, if it is a emergency they might have had a heavy duty electrical system with w heavier output generator requiring a regulator, wiring would be completey different, were did you get the wiring diagram,? FORD, or aftermarket ? is the charging system working correctly? what seems to be the problem ? please post a response, 37RAGTOPMAN
|
|
| MG | -- 03-21-2011 @ 6:29 PM |
|
If the Cut-Out (40-10505-A) is oblong and attached to the top of the generator, it should have just one wire attached to it at it's front. It was used primarily on cars equipped with radios. In '34 they used both the oblong single wire cut-out and the two wire round cut-out on the 3 brush generators. This message was edited by MG on 3-21-11 @ 6:48 PM
|
|
| Leonard | -- 03-22-2011 @ 6:18 AM |
|
My '34 3window coupe has a radio and the wiring diagram is from the green - Ford '32 to '36 engine and chassis repair booklet. My round aftermarket SPARE cutoff has a single coil and a single contact. The oblong unit in question has two terminals on the bottom, one marked R and wired to the generator. The other is marked B and unused. The cover on this unit is crimped or spot welded and I cannot remove it without defacing it. The vehicle is increasingly sluggish to start charging. Last trip it took 3 miles before charging. After that it works fine until the next trip. Also, I was wondering why a radio required the larger oblong unit when a portion seems to be unused. A Ford condensor is also connected to the battery terminal. I have yet to connect the spare round unit for a test. I enjoy the forum and thank all for your time and comments. Leonard
|
|
| supereal | -- 03-22-2011 @ 6:37 AM |
|
The purpose of the cutout is to sense whether the generator output is higher or lower than the battery level. Slow activation is almost always due to a failing generator, but can be a symptom of a bad or high resistance connection between the cutout and the car wiring, or a bad ground at the generator or to the engine. It is also possible that your battery has developed a high resistance, such as a sulfated or shorted cell, if the battery is old. This message was edited by supereal on 3-22-11 @ 6:39 AM
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 03-23-2011 @ 6:26 AM |
|
your generator should have two wires one B-black and the other R-red they should connect to the bottom of the oval cutout. The oval cutout was used on radio equipped cars. The round cutout was used on the other cars. but they can be interchanged. if your generator is slow to start charging remove the steel band covering the rear of the generator and with the battery disconnected you can inspect the three brushes the center brush is slightly smaller in thickness and wears out before the other two, there should be good spring action that depresses the brushes onto the commutator of the generator, if the center brush is worn down it will need to be replaced and if the springs do not depress the brushes properly and give them good contact with the commutator, the generator should be taken apart and cleaned and new brushes installed.
|
|
| supereal | -- 03-23-2011 @ 10:18 AM |
|
Most three brush generators have one wire which is from the movable brush and attached to the cutout. If you have two, the other is likely to be a ground wire. If you replace the brushes, the mica separator between the armature segments should be cut back just below the surface of the segments. There is a tool for that, but careful use of a piece of a hacksaw blade will do. Just be sure to remove any burrs left by the undercutting with a fine crocus cloth. This allows full contact of the brushes.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2784 |