| BBoardman | -- 11-09-2009 @ 9:32 AM |
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We have a 48 Merc and replaced the door glass back in the 1900's (1994)at the same time we replaced the window channels with BD new reproductions. The car went into storage and we're now resurecting it but the windows are really difficult to roll up and down. (this has been true since the new glass was intaslled) Does anyone have the measurements for original glass thickness? If so I'll compare to the flat glass we had cut and see if that is the problem. Thanks bb EFV8 member since about 1990.
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| TomO | -- 11-10-2009 @ 7:27 AM |
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I doubt that the glass thickness is your problem. The glass run is the same for all thickness of glass. First, the parts catalog calls the strip at the bottom of the glass the "channel", the fuzzy strip on the latch side of the door is called the "run" and the front of the glass is held in place by the "bar assembly, door vent window, division" Difficulty in operating the window can be caused by the bar assembly being too tight or the window going up at an angle. Loosen the bar assembly and try to raise the window, while observing it. If it tilts to front or back, move the glass in the channel until it goes up straight. There are adjustments for the bar assembly at the top and the bottom of the bar. To adjust it, see the directions on Van Pelts website. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_glassinstall-40-46_pg7.htm Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-10-2009 @ 9:08 AM |
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There is a difference between old glass thickness and the newer variety. It is slight, but enough to cause problems, both in movable windows, and particularly with windshields in frames instead of rubber seals. We found that out years ago when we tried to have glass cut locally. The shop ruined an expensive windshield frame by trying to force it together, and then tried to blame it on us! We switched to a specialist who had the correct thickness, and could also put the code "bugs" on the glass, and in the proper spots. Glass shops are like radiator shops, and haven't seen many old cars. Today, they handle mostly tempered glass, and laminated safety glass is a mystery to them. Specialty glass is a bit pricey, but it is worth the extra investment.
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| BBoardman | -- 10-05-2010 @ 4:37 PM |
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TomO, One year later . . . So we're back at trying to fix this problem and I have more info. The windows go up and down fine then the interior door garnish molding is removed. (fig 16 in the instructions referenced in your reply http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_glassinstall-40-46_pg7.htm) We do not have interior door panels ready yet and I now wonder if the lack of a door panel allows the window to be squeezed too tightly between the inner and outer parts of the door and moulding? The window by the way mics out at .305 inches. Pictures avail if it would help.
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| supereal | -- 10-06-2010 @ 9:10 AM |
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Check the "fuzzy strips" on the door garnish. There seems to be a considerable difference in thickness, and the mounting screws may also be at fault. We use small pop rivets to secure those strips. They are very much easier to install than the tiny screws or, sometimes, the staples originally used, and can't be seen when in place. Yours is apparently forcing the glass out of line creating a bind in the glass run when the garnish is in place. This would be particularly true if the inner door panels were replaced with thinner material. You may have to shim the panels out a bit. Applying a bit of silicone spray into the channels will sometimes help if the windows haven't been exercised for a long time.
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| trjford8 | -- 10-06-2010 @ 7:04 PM |
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If the door panels and the upper door trim is not on the doors this is probably your problem. The door panels and upper trim will move the garnish moulding out about 1/8 to 3/16 inches.
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| TomO | -- 10-07-2010 @ 8:21 AM |
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If the window goes up and down fine without the garnish molding, it will probably work fine when the interior panels and garnish are installed. Tom
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| BBoardman | -- 10-07-2010 @ 9:09 AM |
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thanks for all the information -- I'm going to try a shim to replicate the door pannel thickness and see what happens. Then on to locating a part for the windshield wipers.
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| 42ford | -- 10-07-2010 @ 1:26 PM |
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Those that say the glass thickness is the same are wrong. Back in the 40 and 50s there were two thickness glass. They were AS2 or 3/16 sheet glass which was used for all but the windshield. The other which was used for the windshield was AS1 which was 1/4 PLATE glass which was poured and then ground in-order to take out all refraction. As the manufacture of glass improved the manufactures were able to Float molten glass in-order to remove all distortion. All glass is now floated and the term plate does not mean what it once did. You can just look at some old window glass and see all the distortion in it. I don't know where you can get 3/16 glass now. The only real need would be to fit in the conv side window ss surronds.
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| supereal | -- 10-08-2010 @ 9:11 AM |
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If the glass worked before the car was stored, I'm sure it didn't grow thicker. There is a problem with glass thickness. We have found it with a dial micrometer when glass was cut locally. Most shops now seldom see or provide the laminated "safety glass" common to old cars, and substitute something that is "close". The last time we sent out a windshield frame, the shop ruined it by trying to force it together over the wrong glass. The safest source is an old glass specialist. In any case, carefully measure your old glass and note the thickness before you order a replacement.
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| Robert/Texas | -- 10-09-2010 @ 6:13 AM |
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I had to remove the driver's side window on my '37 because it was jammed half open. Turned out that a bolt was broken/missing. I sprayed the mechanism with WD40 and reassembled it. Now this window operates like one on a brand new car but the others are quite stiff. This is an original car with original glass.
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