| MOXIE | -- 11-09-2009 @ 5:51 AM |
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They make a universal overflow radiator tank that I'm thinking about putting on my 33. You guys ever use one. It's a tank the is 2 inches diameter and 13 inches tall. Looks like the overflow water will go in the bottom of the tank pushing air out the top. Than as the engine cools, the fluid will be sucked back into the radiator. I do not think it would work on a system that has a relief valve on it.
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| trjford8 | -- 11-09-2009 @ 7:58 PM |
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I don't know how well that would work on your 34. I think you would be better off using Skip's valve system.
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| TomO | -- 11-10-2009 @ 6:36 AM |
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Moxie, I don't know how well those tanks work,but they will not work if your have Skip's valve installed. Skip's valve will (1) pressurize the system, which reduces foaming of the anti-freeze and raises the boiling point; (2)keep the coolant in the radiator and engine where it will continue to remove the heat. The recovery tank will handle the expansion of the coolant, but some of the expansion is due to foaming. Foaming coolant does a poor job of transferring heat. Tom
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| 39Fordfan | -- 11-10-2009 @ 7:42 AM |
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Hi Moxie, I took an old plastic 1/2 gallon orange juice bottle and fed the overflow line into the bottom of it. I left the top open and it works great. I did all of that before I knew of Skip's overflow valve. Plus it certainly doesn't look original. I installed Skip's valve and I don't worry about the overflow anymore. One thing I don't like about the pressure Skip's valve and a good fitting radiator cap creates is that my upper hoses collapse after the engine cools down. Skip said to just add more coolant to the system, but that doesn't seem to correct the issue either. I'm not sure if this is exposing some other hidden problem in the system or if I just need to replace the upper radiator hoses and maybe put some anti-collapse springs in them.
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| wmsteed | -- 11-10-2009 @ 10:04 AM |
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I have installed overflow tanks of one form or another for the past 30 + years, with great success. In some cases the after-market billet tanks look great, especially if the engine compartment is dressed up with a lot of shinny stuff. I don't care for the retro tanks that are sold by the parts houses so I came up with a design of my own: I use a length of 2-1/2" black ABS pipe and two caps for same. I glue one cap onto one end of the pipe, I then drill and tap the cap for a 1/4" tubing connector. I drill another hole in the plastic pipe about 2" from the top, threading in a 1/4" 90 tubing connector. I connect the radiator overflow to the bottom of the overflow chamber using clear plastic tubing, I then connect a piece of tubing to the upper fitting. I attach the tube to a location near the radiator, keeping the tube vertical using plumbers tape or large radiator clamps. The upper cap is left loose so the tank can be filled with coolant. You will have to use a pressure type cap, probably 3/7 lbs on the older radiators. The normal old radiator caps don't have the necessary "valve" system to allow coolant to pass and/or re-enter the radiator like a pressure cap does. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| MOXIE | -- 11-10-2009 @ 1:54 PM |
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Why would they collapse. Does skip's valve not let air back into the system when the system cools down. Isn't his valve like a check valve.
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| TomO | -- 11-11-2009 @ 7:26 AM |
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His valve is a pressure relief valve and has no provisions to let air back into the system. Tom
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| 39Fordfan | -- 11-11-2009 @ 7:47 AM |
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Understood. After the engine cools down I can take the radiator cap off and the top hoses will expand almost back to normal from being collapsed. So why is it that the upper radiator hoses collapse when using Skip's valve and a good sealing radiator cap? Thanks.
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| MOXIE | -- 11-11-2009 @ 3:54 PM |
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They collapse because when the engine cools down it creats a vacuum and since air can not get into the engine, the hoses suck in. That's why I'm not a fan of skip's valve. I rather have an overflow tank. I've tried it already by sticking the end of the overflow hose in a jar. When the engine heated up, fluid filled the jar and sure enough when engine cooled, the fluid sucked back into the engine.. Now yes I know it's better to have the water in the engine than a jar but I'm not losing that much water to make a difference and there is something about having pressure in the radiator and engine that I do not like. Now if I can just get my cap to be leak tight.
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| t35 | -- 11-11-2009 @ 6:38 PM |
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i installed that overflow tank on my 35, and installed skips valve at outlet of overflow tank. it keeps the pressure in the system and increases the capacity. i used it all this past summer and it worked great. tom
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| 39Fordfan | -- 11-12-2009 @ 12:34 PM |
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I agree with your assessment Moxie, but my understanding is that this sucking the hoses in is NOT supposed to happen with Skip's valve. I'd like to know why not, and why mine does suck the hoses in anyways.
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| TomO | -- 11-12-2009 @ 4:52 PM |
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When the engine reaches operating temperature, both the coolant and the air in the system expand. The air is forced out the overflow. When your engine cools, air cannot get back into the system through the radiator cap or Skip's pressure valve, so the vacuum in the system causes the hoses to collapse. You can help relieve the problem by drilling a hole in the radiator cap, cutting part of the inner seal of the cap to allow air to enter the system or install a 4lb pressure cap. Tom
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| MOXIE | -- 11-12-2009 @ 5:45 PM |
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Drill a hole in the radiaotr cap or cut the seal. What magic is going to keep the fluid from spraying out the hole when the system heats up with pressure.
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| wmsteed | -- 11-13-2009 @ 8:32 AM |
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DUH ?... drilling a hole in the cap and/or removing a portion of the cap gasket would defeat the whole principle of an overflow tube/tank or Skip's pressure valve. For the life of me I can't see why people have reluctance to use a simple improvement like an overflow tank that has been standard equipment since the late 1960's on most water cooled engines. I can understand the reluctance to follow in the footsteps of the "Rat-Rodders" using pop bottles, beer cans, etc.... if you don't like the looks of the billet style overflow tanks, simply spray the thing with flat black paint. It could just be that overflow tanks fall into the realm of PCV's, the later of which I usually install on all of my old cars... Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| supereal | -- 11-13-2009 @ 11:54 AM |
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Be sure that whatever you use for an overflow tank is vented to the atmosphere, and the end of the feed connected to the overflow tube is at the bottom of the tank so it is always immersed in coolant. Install a pressure cap if you don't have one, and fill the system thru the overflow tank instead of the radiator cap once the radiator is full. This will allow the system to purge the air and replace it with coolant. In a properly configured overflow tank system your hoses should not collapse. In the case of a check valve in the overflow tube, there is no way for either air or coolant to replace the coolant lost from heat expansion, and thus the hoses collapse.
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