| rdt52flthd | -- 03-16-2011 @ 2:15 PM |
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I have a 52 flathead with original 6 volt Positive ground. Due to old wiring I would like to wire a fuse block under the IP to run the radio, clock, etc. Will the blocks for 12 volt blade type fuses work for this? Any grounding issues? What guage wiring should I run from the battery to the fuse block and to the accessories? Thanks, you guys are a real education for newbies.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-16-2011 @ 3:21 PM |
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wouldn't it be easier to rewire the car, instead of adding more wiring ? the wiring in it is 60 years old, and it isn't getting any better, as time goes on it will get worse,and will be dangerous, electic fires are not fun, when you see your investment go up in smoke, my 3 cents worth 37 RAGTOPMAN
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| rdt52flthd | -- 03-17-2011 @ 8:19 AM |
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That is my long term plan, but to remove the IP & invest hundreds of dollars right now won't happen. The previous owner already rewired turn signal switch, electric fuel pump, etc. so I'm not risking much of a hazzard from fire.
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| supereal | -- 03-17-2011 @ 10:08 AM |
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On my '47, and for several customer's cars, we constructed a panel to fit where the original "breaker" was mounted. We mounted the ignition resistor on the board, too. The base is a piece of plastic coated fiber board, and we mounted several push button reset breakers on the back side with the buttons facing out, which are fed by a main link to the accessory side of the ignition switch. We could have used a direct battery connection, but we wanted to be sure the accessories were turned off with the ignition switch. An exception is the lights breaker(s), which should not be switched. The breakers are available at most good auto supply stores. We prefer those over fuses because they can be reset easily without having to carry replacements. By splitting up the individual feeds, the car is not disabled in the event of a short out on the road. All branches can be connected, except the charging circuit from the generator to the battery. The original "buzzing breaker" handles only the headlights, and is of dubious value, anyway. For most circuits, a 15 amp breaker is sufficient. The headlights require at least 20, we prefer 30, particularly if you have halogens. Most loads in a car are purely resistive, with the exception of the heater motor, so large capacities are seldom necessary.
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| TomO | -- 03-18-2011 @ 2:56 PM |
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You can use a 12 volt fuse holder, I would use 14 gauge wire for the clock and radio. Most clocks and radios are fused already. The largest current draw in your car is the lights. If you still have 60 year old wiring for them, you are driving a fire hazard. If your car is worth more than $1,000 to you, I would protect my investment and re-wire the car before it burns up on you. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 03-19-2011 @ 9:35 AM |
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I agree with Tom O on replacing the wiring. A wiring fire or a short can ruin a lot of other components of the car besides the wiring. I once had a guy want me to patch up some old wiring in his car as he was a little electrically challenged. I had to tell him that I would not do it because if he had a fire later I would be the first person to be blamed. It's what you cannot see with old wiring that causes issues. Old wire has corroded over time even inside the insulation. Corrosion creates resistance which in turn creates heat. Just open up the insulation on an old battery cable and look at the corrosion on the strands. Spend the extra $ and replace the harness. You and your car will be much happier and safer.
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| rdt52flthd | -- 03-21-2011 @ 1:01 PM |
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Actually wiring for lights, ignition, etc has been replaced. It's only under the IP the previous owner left undone, which is why things like dome lights, radio, clock, etc are disconnected. Thanks for all the input. I will get busy on a new cowl harness installation. RDT
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