| j.grif | -- 03-02-2011 @ 5:27 PM |
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hydralic brakes on the tired 36. Have been trying to improve the braking on this coupe. Last year replaced the master cylinder and cleaned up the wheel cylinders and still the brakes grab and uneven braking. Bled the system with no real improvement. Plan to check out the shoes next. I see the rear wheels do not appear to have adjustable anchor pins but look like rivets to secure the shoes at the bottom. Is that ok?
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| trjford8 | -- 03-02-2011 @ 7:09 PM |
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It sounds like you have the 42-48 backing plates on the rear. Those backing plates do not have the adjustments on the bottom.
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| flatheadfan | -- 03-03-2011 @ 9:07 AM |
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I agree with trjford8. The rears sound like '42-'48 brakes which are easier to work with than '39-'41 brakes. I guess my first question regarding your brake problems is, were the shoes contour ground to match the drum? I know this is harder and harder to find a shop that still does this but it does make a difference. Grabbing often results from shoe contamination usually bearing grease. Remove the drum and check the bearing seal. A bad seal can cause bearing grease to escape and end up on the brake shoe. This can cause grabbing. Unless this is addressed it is a waste of time to clean or replace the shoes. To clean the shoes try this, sometimes it works. Use some lacquer thinner on a paper towel and wash the surface of the shoes and drum. Allow to dry. Continue applying until the towel is no longer picking up any residue and the shoes are starting to look like their original color. Once dry use a block sander with some 80 grit paper and block sand the shoe lightly to remove any high spots. Re-do with lacquer thinner again. Things should be clean. Incidentally, it wouldn't hurt to wear a dusk mask while you are doing this. Old brake shoes were often a composite material containing asbestos which doesn't add to your longevity if you breathe the stuff! Hope this will end the grabbing. If it doesn't work you will need to look at the hardware itself. This could be springs, missing clips, bent backing plate and their related hoses looking for pinches or damages. Tom
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| j.grif | -- 03-03-2011 @ 9:45 AM |
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Thanks much for info and help
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-03-2011 @ 10:01 AM |
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take the 4 drums off, buy a good spray brake cleaner, like CRC. soak the lining,let it drip into a pan, see if the lining change color. should be a slate gray color, it should be uniform color, lighty sand the lining,with fine grade sandpaper, the brake lining shold clean up, if you find a lot a residue on the sand paper, resoak the lining, if the lining are clean let them dry, soak the drums also sand the drums lighly,a little scuffing, remove all oil grease or rust, assembley and adust the brakes,and take for a test ride and see if you have any more pulling, if you still have pulling you can try AJAX KITCHEN CLEANSER,us a squeese bulb, and squirt the power into the drum and shoe area,do this while spining the wheel, make sure it gets into that area, do all 4 wheels the same, carefully try the brakes, stepping down, a few time, this cleanser will clean the brake surface,this also stop brake squeels, lets here how you made out, also make sure you linings are in good condition, I think over the years, things got dirty and need a good cleaning, my 3 cent worth 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,
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| Stroker | -- 03-03-2011 @ 10:59 AM |
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One old trick to draw grease or brake fluid out of shoes is to remove them and cover them with a layer of Portland cement. Sackrete concrete won't work, it has to be pure Portland, which now days will probably require a trip to your local redi-mix plant. The cement will draw all oils out of the lining material if allowed some time to do so. BrakeKleen works too, but if you're not in a big hurry, the cement works like "super oil-dry".
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| supereal | -- 03-03-2011 @ 11:19 AM |
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Grif: It is likely that the linings are not appropriate for the car, particularly if they are the bonded type, and may be too hard. Check to see that the wheel cylinders and the shoes are correctly positioned, The large end of the cylinder faces forward, and pushes the long lining. The short (secondary) lining faces to the rear. We often see these reversed, and it will reduce the braking considerably. If the three brake hoses have not been replaced, I'd do it now. Not only does this remove any hoses that may have internal swelling that reduces fluid flow, but eliminates the possibilty of a burst hose, which will eliminate braking altogether. Finally, check the inside of the drums for wear and scoring. If they are not smooth, have a good brake shop that knows how to do drums cut just enough to smooth them out. Be sure they use a vibration belt, or the drums may be "wash boarded". If you can't find a shop that does drums, look for a truck repair place. They should know how. This message was edited by supereal on 3-3-11 @ 3:32 PM
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