| Dolman | -- 02-28-2011 @ 5:16 PM |
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I found that a side of the dipstick tube boss in my 34 pickup is broken off and the tube is held in what remains of the boss with a hose clamp. There is only about 1/4 inch of the tube inserted in the hole. I read the special shop notes and it looks like I will be doing some major surgery to get the oil pan off to replace the boss. But, the oldest boss I have been able to find is for a 35. Will that work on a 34? Second question: What sort of a tool(s) do I need for installing the rivets or is there enough internal clearance from whirling around parts that I can just bolt the new boss on?. My rivet work is similar to my welding...not pretty.
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| Stroker | -- 02-28-2011 @ 6:18 PM |
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Dolman: I can't answer regarding what year dipstick boss will interchange, but if you live by a general aviation airport, perhaps you could avail of one of their A&P mechanics to let you use a "Huck fastening tool". A Huck fastener is a blind rivet similar to a common Pop rivet, except the center core stays in place, preventing leaks. This might save having to pull the pan. It won't be concourse-correct, but then neither will bolting it with stovebolts;.....(I'm surprised we are allowed to use the term stovebolt in this forum without lots-o-****'s)!
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| Dolman | -- 02-28-2011 @ 7:28 PM |
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Stroker, I'm not interested in concourse so your suggestion appears to be a good shortcut and a knuckle saver. As a former airplane owner that spent megabucks on A&Ps, I won't have difficulty borrowing the Huck tool. But then after drilling out the old rivets I would be left with the inside heads (or tails) and drill shavings roaming around inside the pan. I suppose that if the old rivets are steel, they could be dragged to the drain hole with a magnet. That would depend on how much sludge is in the bottom of the pan that could block their movement. And now that I think about it, there may not be enough room to get at the rivets with a drill or grinder. Have to go to the big city (Anchorage) tomorrow but will crawl under the truck on Wednesday for a recon. Thanks for the response.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 03-01-2011 @ 3:42 AM |
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the 34 dip stick tube boss is not reproduced. You may be able to find one from an want ad placed on this web site or fordbarn.com or look on ebay. You may consider another complete 34 oil pan. I have not tried to replace the 34 boss with the shorter boss from 35 and do not know if the result would have the proper angle to passs through the exhaust manifold. The short boss takes a larger diameter, longer tube, with a wider dip stick. Changing to the later style parts would most likely result in an incorrect reading dip stick. Roy Nacewicz sells a small bolt that has a rivet type head and threads. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 3-1-11 @ 3:50 AM
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| Stroker | -- 03-01-2011 @ 8:20 AM |
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Dolman: I wouldn't drill out the old rivets. I believe if you mill the heads off with a die grinder, you will be able to remove the boss, leaving the rivets attached to the pan. Once removed, there will be about a 1/2" center hole that perhaps you could fish a magnet through as you tap the rivet shank into the pan. Alternatively, you might be able to ease the rivets loose with a pair of vice grips, but that may hog-out the mounting holes. I dunno, it's something I might try on my own motor, but as you realize it's far from "proper" procedure.
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| BrianCT | -- 03-01-2011 @ 10:35 AM |
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Is this a job for J B Weld??
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| supereal | -- 03-01-2011 @ 11:13 AM |
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The "green book" shows the 59A-6751 dipstick boss is the service replacement for the years 32-48. It is the boss with the oil return hole. I assume that the boss without the hole, 48-6751-A is no longer available. It was applied to 32-46 models. An 1/8" pipe plug will fill the hole. C&G has the boss. When you replace the boss, be sure to confirm your dipstick ("indicator") shows the correct level with 4 quarts of oil, or 5 wit a filter. I wouldn't try to replace the boss with the pan on the engine as, with my luck, the loose pieces would end up in a critical spot. If you pull the pan, be sure to order new seals and gasket. It is also a very good time to remove any sludge and clean the oil pump screen.
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| Dolman | -- 03-02-2011 @ 3:32 PM |
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Thanks for the info, folks. For the time being I think I'll just smear on the JB Weld. Used a similar product called MarineTex on a boat heat exchanger manifold and it worked for at least the next 5 years until I sold the boat. Seems like the only harm the JB Weld would do is permanently bond the dipstick tube to the boss. If it didn't leak oil, I would be happy.
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