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That problem opens a lot of possibilities. If the parts used to rebuild your carb were not "fuel proof", one or more could have quickly deteriorated, such as the power valve diaphragm. Many rebuild kits have set on store shelves for a long time, and may not be alcohol resistant. If you smell gas, I'd consider that as a problem, as well as a float adjustment or something holding the needle off the seat. Another possibility is one or more valves sticking. Running an old engine without driving the car to thoroughly warm it up will cause valve problems. If you have access to a compression gauge, remove all spark plugs and test each cylinder to see if one or more is low. If you find any, squirt some oil into the cylinder and retest. If a valve isn't seating the oil won't change the reading. If rings are stuck, the compression will rise considerably. Before you tear into your carb or engine, take the car out and run it at highway speeds. There is a good chance that will "blow out the cobs", as we used to say, and it will settle down. I try never to run my cars unless I go a minimum of ten miles. This goes a long way toward reducing sludge formation.
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