| swmddo | -- 02-14-2011 @ 12:12 PM |
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I am in the process of removing all of the components of my 59AB block for my '48 coupe, in order to hot-tank the block and replace rings, seals, etc. I have the newer type valves (straight). I have looked at several youtubes and pictures of how to remove the valve from the block, but I seem to be missing something, even after reading various Ford books on the subject, too. The problem I have is that I cannot coerce the two locks at the bottom inside the lower keeper to come out. I can pry the valve spring up and have the keeper show, but how do I remove that? Thanks Steve
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| Stenny | -- 02-14-2011 @ 1:43 PM |
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You remove the valve by prying down on the valve spring and guide and removing the horseshoe shaped clip that holds the guide in the block. Once that is out, you put your valve tool under the base of the guide/spring and push the entire unit out.This sounds easier than it is but a whole lot easier than removing the split locks and pushing the valve through the guide and out.
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| swmddo | -- 02-14-2011 @ 2:27 PM |
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Actually, that is how I got the FIRST one out! I have the entire valve assembly in my hand (except for the tappet of course). But how do I remove the physical valve from this now? Or do I even need to do that, if the valves are still straight and not damaged? They are carboned up, so I know I would need to resurface the inserts and the angled portion of the valves. Steve This message was edited by swmddo on 2-14-11 @ 2:31 PM
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| supereal | -- 02-14-2011 @ 2:43 PM |
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You need a valve spring compressor to remove the locks. Unless you have access to the equipment, I'd at least take the block to a good machine shop and have them hot tank it and remove the rest of the valve assemblies. At our shop, we replace all valve seats, as they usually have been resurfaced enough that it is difficult to obtain a proper seat with sufficient depth and angle. Plus, we install hardened seats. The valves must be inspected and either ground to specs, or replaced if they have been ground previously and not enough "meat" is left for a good compound angle. Removing valve assemblies can sometimes be very tricky, requiring the removal of the valve head so the assembly can be forced upward and out, or driven down, if they are badly stuck. Have the shop check and true both the heads and the block "deck", as well as the cylinder taper. Good work isn't cheap, but unless you have it done correctly, all money spent can be wasted.
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| swmddo | -- 02-14-2011 @ 3:01 PM |
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Thanks...I suspected as much that this was not something that I could reasonably do myself, either because of lack of proper tools OR lack of experience! Steve
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| TomO | -- 02-15-2011 @ 8:20 AM |
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Steve, If you remove the complete assembly (valve, spring and guide) and keep them together for your machinist, it will be easier for him to check the tolerances and recommend which parts to replace. I have been able to remove the keepers when the assembly is out of the engine by making sure that the guide was all the way towards the head, and then compressing the spring by hand enough to remove the keepers. Tom
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| swmddo | -- 02-17-2011 @ 5:31 AM |
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Tom, thanks. So far, I've not been able to compress the spring by hand. Does this mean I have a problem? Even prying/compressing the spring with the fork is not easy, and then pulling the top keeper out is difficult at best. I got ONE of the assemblies out, when I got the top keeper out. The whole assembly came out very easily, so they are not stuck. Steve
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| supereal | -- 02-17-2011 @ 8:01 AM |
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There is likely enough carbon buildup on the valve stem to prevent the retainer from sliding up. A valve spring compressor pushes past the carbon, but in some cases, you may be able to soak the valve assemblies in enough "rust buster" to loosen it up and move it by hand.
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