| gendrone | -- 01-26-2011 @ 7:15 PM |
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I recently had my flathead engine overheat. I discovered that one of the thermostats had moved into the radiator hose and was croswise, not allowing the coolant to work. 1. did the flathead originally have thermostats? 2. are thermostats neccessary? 3. how can I keep them from moving up i the hose? 4. has anyone else had this problem? Thanks: Ernie Gendron - Nashville Tn.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 01-26-2011 @ 8:38 PM |
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thermostats were avaiable-somewhere I saw them listed as 160 degree-they were a bi-metallic spring operated, to keep the modern ones from moving most guys try to trap them in the head using the "bell" of the top hose, some use an extra hose clamp, I personally don't use them since I tried the conversion pumps which move so much more water thru the engine, not had an overheating problem since, to get some heat into the engine during the winter, I use a piece of cardboard and cover some of the radiator-sort of like shutters on big trucks. I live in SC
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| TomO | -- 01-27-2011 @ 8:51 AM |
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It sounds like you have the thermostats for the 49-53 engine. They are smaller that the 1938-1948 thermostats and will not stay in the head. C&G has the correct thermostat. Thermostats are not needed in temperatures that are above 50F. They are used to shorten the warm up time for the engine and to maintain a minimum temperature. Most flatheads will run at 160-180F when the temperature is above 50F. Your car had thermostats in it when it was delivered. They were probably 140F because most antifreeze was alcohol base in 1947. Tom
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| supereal | -- 01-27-2011 @ 2:06 PM |
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Thermostats do hasten warmup to operating temperature which reduces sludge formation, and have an additional benefit by providing a bit of cooling system back pressure that reduces "tea kettling", which is steam pockets formed in some places in the water jacket. Steam doesn't provide cooling. Be sure the thermostats are placed with the bellows facing the engine, not the radiator, and secure them with a hose clamp placed around the hose just over the stat. If the stat isn't secured, it can be pushed up into the hose and will not operate properly, if it opens at all, as you found out. Most of us use 160 degree stats. Test all stats before installation by placing them in a pan of water on the stove with a good thermometer and observe the point where they open. Even new stats can vary widely. Many run without them, but if they are properly operating, they shouldn't be a problem. Almost always, overheating shows a problem elsewhere in the engine.
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| Old Henry | -- 01-27-2011 @ 9:29 PM |
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If you want to maintain the authentic look and still keep your thermostat in place (don't want to add an extra hose clamp above the thermostat) you can thread one strand of a stranded wire through the tnermostat and down the side of the neck a couple of inches then put the hose on and tighten down the clamp. That's how I hold mine in place and still look authentic. I've created an illustration of what I do attached. I agree with Supereal that it is important to run thermostats both summer and winter to get the engine up to operating temperature as quickly as possible for all of the reasons he listed. Here is a previous discussion of this question: http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2287 Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) This message was edited by Old Henry on 1-27-11 @ 9:36 PM
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| 42guy | -- 01-29-2011 @ 7:44 PM |
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I insert a piece of thin wall copper pipe 1 1/2" dia about 1 in. in length into the hose and then slide the hose on the neck. This secures the stat in place.
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