| unclemark | -- 01-16-2011 @ 5:00 PM |
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I just spend a lot of time installing front new shackle bushings or studs listed as (51A-5464) for the 40-41 passenger and commercials only to have the nuts strip out on both ends of the studs. Did this while tightening down (by hand), this seems wrong to me. These things are a critical connecting point from the front axle to the car, if the steel is that soft they could easily fail. Anybody know where to get made in USA steel versions or N.O.S. of these? I am taking the front axle out but ran into another problem I did not expect. Got everything undone but can not get the N.O.S shock links to come out of either the shock arms nor the top of the perches. Any ideas guys?
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| trjford8 | -- 01-17-2011 @ 7:35 PM |
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Check with All Ford Parts in Campbell, California( 800-532-1932), Stacy Brown Auto Parts in Texas( 817-275-2381), or Louis Cote in Nevada9775-867-2729). Any one of these guys may have the NOS shackle pins. The shock links fit into a tapered hole. You may need to soak them with a rust buster chemical and use a "pickle fork" to get them out.
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| kubes40 | -- 01-18-2011 @ 6:13 AM |
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A pickle fork may in fact damage the links. By design, the fork stretches the ball and socket. I'd suggest a tie rod end removal tool. You can purchase a good quality one for about $25 or perhaps rent one at the local parts store. it works by applying pressure to the end of the stud thereby no 'stretch'.
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| supereal | -- 01-18-2011 @ 10:07 AM |
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Removing any part that is tapered can present real problems. This includes the shock studs and spring perches. I have seen axles heated almost to red, with the perches still stuck. I agree with Mike about the pickle fork, but sometimes heat and brute force is the only approach. If you get stuck (no pun), take the pieces, even the whole axle, to a machine shop. We see a lots of that kind of problem at ours, and usually the job can be done without damage. As for the shackle bolts stripping, most are now foreign made with an inappropriate grade of steel. I'd send them back to the vendor so they know what is happening. This message was edited by supereal on 1-18-11 @ 12:25 PM
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| marks01c | -- 01-21-2011 @ 8:55 PM |
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I put new shackles and polyurethane bushings in my 40 pickup 20 plus years ago, I am pretty sure they were TCI parts, you could check online. As far as heating up the axle, I did that for the kingpins on my truck to replace them and the bushings, the axle is now garbage. The heat destroyed the steel, the holes for the kingpins are now elongated and sloppy. Don't heat up the axle.
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| supereal | -- 01-22-2011 @ 10:52 AM |
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Overheating can affect the temper of the axle if overdone. With parts such as the tapered spring perches, application of heat is almost always required to get them to come out. We place the axle in a press and heat the perch area enough to break the rust seal. If the perches don't come out, the axle is junk, anyway. We have never had to heat kingpins to get them out, as they are usually loose from wear. The only time I've seen it done is when the lock bolts were not removed because the owner forgot them, and lit up the torch. In that case, dynamite couldn't get the king bolts out with the locks in place.
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| makemc | -- 01-25-2011 @ 9:44 PM |
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I know some one that had the same problem with replacement shackles, he discovered that the nuts were actualy metric and the studs were sae, so he swaped the nuts and they worked fine...
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| supereal | -- 01-26-2011 @ 9:22 AM |
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Good tip! I have also found that the nuts that are furnished with some trim pieces are also SAE, while the studs are metric. I let Drake know about this, and they said, of course, that "no one else complained". With all parts, always try the nuts or bolts by hand before assembly, as most foreign parts are metric threaded. Years ago, we sometimes had the problem with "Whitworth" stuff from Britain.
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