| Robert/Texas | -- 12-20-2010 @ 8:15 AM |
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One of the tie rod ends feels quite loose on my '37 fordor. It has 59,000 miles on it and I think the tie rod ends are probably the original ones. I'm thinking about replacing both tie rod ends and the draglink. The Drake draglink costs $135 and the tie rod ends cost $20 each. The MACs catalog shows $89.95 for the draglink and $14.75 for the tie rod ends. I'm wonder if these parts come from the same source. Any suggestions as to where I can get good/safe parts are appreciated.
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| supereal | -- 12-20-2010 @ 9:34 AM |
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We buy ours from C&G (800-266-0470) if NAPA doesn't have them. There usually isn't a reason to replace a drag link or tie rod if they aren't bent, and have decent threads in the ends. If you count the turns when you unscrew the old one, you can get close to the right adjustment when you put the new ones one with the same turns. If you have problems scr*w*ng them in, remember that some have left handed threads.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-20-2010 @ 9:50 AM |
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I usually check e-bay for NOS or NORS for tie rod ends because they are made in the USA. You can get some reasonable prices there on genuine USA made parts.When you are buying front end, suspension, and brake parts ask where they are made.
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| Robert/Texas | -- 12-20-2010 @ 11:44 AM |
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Superreal Thanks, the reason I was considering replacing the draglink is that only one end of it has the removable tie rod end. The other tie rod end is fixed to the draglink and is not adjustable or removable. On second thought, maybe I just won't replace the draglink as "it ain't broke". I do want to replace both tie rod ends on the tie rod as the right one is shot. I never thought of NAPA but may try them. What is the best tool to use to remove the old ones. When I took off all four shocks on this car, seven of the shock linkages popped off easily with one of those screw on gadgets. The eighth one was a bear and took me several hours and I just about ruined the tool. I'm 76 years old and working under a car is getting tough. trjford8 Thanks, I agree about front end parts and other safety related items. Cheap is not an issue in this case. I wish we could trust the Asian parts and I know they can make good stuff. I love my Minox (German brand, licensed and made in China) binoculars. I think the quality is as good as any I have seen.
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| supereal | -- 12-21-2010 @ 8:54 AM |
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Robert: You and I are the same age, and "getting out and getting under" sure isn't as easy as it used to be! I forgot that one end of the drag link isn't replaceable. The replacement, 11Y-3306, is sold by C&G complete with the removable end for about a hundred bucks. The outer end is only about twenty. Unless there is visual evidence of wear, such as slack, I wouldn't change it. As for removing tie rod ends, etc, we prefer the "pickle fork" method. These are tools about a foot long with a "ramped" fork that fits around the shank of the piece, and usually a couple of whacks releases the taper. If they are really stuck, back up the arm with a big hammer, and bang on the other side. That should shake it loose. The "pickle fork" tool is widely available at most places that sell tools, and they are not expensive. Applying heat can help, but be careful not to overdo it and affect the temper of the arm. As for quality of parts, bad pieces are not limited to old cars. A great many are made out of the country, mainly in Mexico, now. We have to send back quite a few, which causes increased labor charges to do the job more than once. We allowed the "outsourcing" of manufacturing so the corporations could increase profits with low wages, and we got the short end of the deal.
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| Robert/Texas | -- 12-22-2010 @ 1:51 PM |
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Thanks superreal, I had thought about the "pickle fork" and will look for one after the holidays. I hope it works OK. I'll shop around for good quality tie rod ends.
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| watwasithinking | -- 12-23-2010 @ 10:46 PM |
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Robert, I would suggest that you use a pneumatic air hammer with the "pickle fork" attachment to remove those ball joints. It makes childs play out of removing ball joints... about 5 seconds per joint. If your wanting to stay with the original look and use the old style metal dust shields and not the rubber covers, call Ray Nacewicz Enterprises(734-654-9450). Ray manufactures and can supply the metal cup style dust shields. I would also suggest that you buy U.S. made only ball joints. One last suggestion....if you find 'em on eBAY be sure your buying ball joints for a car and not the ones made for 1.5 ton truck. EBay sellers often list the larger threaded size truck ball joints as being correct for passenger cars.
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| Robert/Texas | -- 01-07-2011 @ 4:25 AM |
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Thanks again y'all. I bought a pair of NORS, US made tie rod ends from Stacy Brown. I finally got to Houston and bought a $10 Chinese made pickle fork at Harbor Freight (air hammer type). As mentioned, less than 3 seconds to knock each one off. Cleaning everything up, putting it back together and setting the toe in is one of my projects for today. This message was edited by Robert/Texas on 1-7-11 @ 4:27 AM
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| trjford8 | -- 01-07-2011 @ 8:44 AM |
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Stacy Brown is an excellent source for NOS and NOSR parts.
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