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dansford
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 7:59 AM
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My brake drums must have some high spots on them when I rotate the jacked up tire I can here it hitting the high spots, is it possible to just remove the high spots without takeing too much meat off the drum? Thanks dansford
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Old Henry
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 9:16 AM
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Even my brake drums that have just been turned touch the shoes some places before others. I think that's normal. If in doubt, have the drums turned. You might have to look a while to find a shop that can do it but they're around. Some shop's equipment can't mount our old drum configurations.
Old Henry
(The older I get, the better old looks.)
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kubes40
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 9:22 AM
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The first thing I'd do is see if the drums are actually the cause of this. Very likely the shoes are the culprit.
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supereal
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 11:12 AM
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As Mike says,it isn't unusual to find the linings are at fault. It is also possible if the brake shoe springs were not replaced when the linings were renewed. If the shop that last turned the drums has a drum lathe with a drive spindle with too much runout, the cut will be off center, or if they didn't use an anti vibration belt, the cut can be poor. On old cars, driving will often reduce or eliminate the problem as the linings wear in.
This message was edited by supereal on 12-7-10 @ 10:21 AM
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dansford
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 12:56 PM
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Perhaps I will resurface only one brake drun now and see if there is any improvement before I do the rest,I will pick the one that rubs the most,any other comments? Thanks for all your help.dansford
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Stroker
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 1:47 PM
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I hate to suggest anything but erring on the "safe side" when it comes to brakes, but unless you are noticing some "pulsing" in the pedal (I assume you are running the stock mechanicals), I wouldn't be overly concerned with a minor (emphasis on "minor"),tight spot when turning a jacked-up wheel.
I believe you should pull one of the offending drums, and at least observe the condition of the drum and shoes.
A real bad "high spot" will often show discoloration and/or fine cracks from the localized heat, much like a flywheel, or warped brake rotor will.
You might also try turning the jacked-up wheel after driving the car, and warming up the brakes, as a warm drum may aggravate or eliminate the symptom, which is usually caused by the drum becoming slightly "egg-shaped" through many heating/cooling cycles. Generally, this manifests itself as two tight spots about 180 degrees apart.
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Stroker
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 2:58 PM
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A question that relates to dansford's concerns: Does anyone make a reproduction 36-39 front or rear brake drum? I've looked at the usual sources, and see the smaller bolt circle parts available, but I've never seen any reproduction "wide-fives".
Fortunately, I have a few spares for my 38, but at some point, it would be nice to know that my
old, paper-thin drums are being reproduced. The last time I did my brakes, I had to bribe our local machine shop to let me take their shoe-arc'ing grinder home, as they refused to arc shoes
due to OSHA regs.
There's only so much iron in these old drums, so anyone contemplating having them turned may have to haunt the swap meets to find a decent set with enough meat left to safely turn them.
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37RAGTOPMAN
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 4:45 PM
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make sure the wheel bearing's are ajusted properly.after that,
I would drive the car and use the brakes and then after it still rubs in certain spots try cutting the drums,
almost every car has a spot were the drum hits the shoe,you never said is it front or rear,its only a few thousands,
check the drums were it hits.
are the brakes locking up ? or pulsate when applying the brakes, if the pedal does not pulsate your brakes are most likely normal
pull the wheels and just check them,
if you cut to much off the drums ,remember the thinner the drums the more likely they will warp again,you then will have to buy new ones,
hope this helps, 37RAGTOPMAN
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ford38v8
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 5:29 PM
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Dansford, you didn't say whether you have the wide 5's or not, but as everyone else assumes you have, I'll put in my 2ยข worth on that: Wide 5's will distort very easily if you don't install them correctly. Tighten every other lug nut a small amount at a time till they are all properly tightened. There could still be an off center condition due to the grinding operation, but that's the best you can do. It should never in any case be so bad that it can be felt at the pedal.
Alan
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dansford
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-- 12-06-2010 @ 7:15 PM
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Thanks again for the help it's the rears that are rubing I pulled both hubs in the rear and things looked good the shoes are in good condition and there were no marks on the drums that I could see where the shoes made contact with the drums, the brakes do not pulsate and it's the stock wide 5 patern wheels on a 36Ford.I may be making a big deal out of nothing. The brakes work very well,I will leave things as they are.Thank you. dansford
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TomO
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-- 12-07-2010 @ 7:31 AM
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Dansford, you made a good choice. It is always better to not fix something that is not broken. Your car will be 75 years old next year and they did not manufacture cars with the tolerance that we expect in today's cars. These cars were not perfect when new and trying to make one perfect is an exercise in futility.
Tom
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51f1
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-- 12-07-2010 @ 12:55 PM
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I've never seen drum brakes that didn't drag a little when rotated. That's not unusual. Also, when turning brake drums, turn all 4 at the same time.
Richard
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39Tudor
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-- 12-07-2010 @ 5:04 PM
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Anyone know of any reproduction brake drums?
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trjford8
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-- 12-08-2010 @ 8:53 PM
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To my knowledge no one repops the wide 5 drums. You might find them NOS, but it's a long shot. You might try Louis Cote in Nevada at 775-867-2729. NOS drums will not be cheap if you find them. You can use the drums from 37-39.
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Stroker
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-- 12-10-2010 @ 3:41 PM
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Here's a thought for those who sell stuff to those of us who own 36-39 cars and pickups: Why not make an adapter plate, similar to the one's that are sold for wheel balancing purposes that have both bolt patterns? It might have to be "domed" (convex dish) to accommodate the slightly different bolt circle planes between 32-35/40-48, but it wouldn't take a lot of tooling to manufacture. The inner bolt circle would have tapered holes, and the outer bolt circle could have the wheel studs pressed in place.
This would allow the use of currently available aftermarket drums, and even Bendix brake conversions. If I were younger, and could afford the liability insurance, I'd consider doing this on my own. Personally, I have several sets of drums for my 38, but there are, I'm sure some early V8'ers that want to keep their wide-fives, but have paper-thin drums.
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trjford8
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-- 12-10-2010 @ 8:23 PM
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Actually, Speedway Motors sells those adapter plates.
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Stroker
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-- 12-11-2010 @ 12:09 PM
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trjFord8
Well, old "Speedy Bill" has beat me to the punch! Actually, those plates are really designed for open-wheel racing applications that use the alloy wide-five rears, where maintaining proper backset isn't quite the same issue as a car with fenders. I was sort of envisioning a similar plate, but stamped, or hydroformed with a negative offset so the vertical plane of the outer bolt circle would hug the 5 on 5 drum. You would still have a slight difference (the thickness of the plate and stud heads), but it wouldn't be as pronounced as simply using a flat plate.
I guess the only "correct" solution is for one of the many Chinese foundries to clone the front and rear drums 
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trjford8
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-- 12-11-2010 @ 7:32 PM
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Stroker, send a note to Speedy Bill and he just might do it. He's an interesting guy. I met him last year when we made the trip from California to Auburn, Indiana. A trip through Speedy Bill's Museum is a real treat.
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Stroker
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-- 12-12-2010 @ 4:39 PM
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trjford8
Good advice:
Actually, I have dealt with "Speedy" since the 60's, and for those of you that love flatmotors, Bill and his associates built a record setting streamliner that ran at Bonneville in the late 80's with a flathead engine, with Don Garlits doing the driving.
Given that 36-39's are numerous, and given that not only the brake drums are an "endangered species", there is also the question of wheels.
For every 2 front, and 2 rear drums produced during that 4 year period, there were also only 5 wheels. Also given that some of those wheels were the narrower V8-60's, the wheels are also an "issue".
Perhaps the most logical approach would be to design a center for 16-inch wheels that incorporates
the little "spyder spokes", the wide-five hubcap clips, and a 5-on-5 bolt center, with the correct backspace.
This way, two problems are solved; the lack of good 36-39 drums, and the lack of 36-39 wheels.
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Stroker
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-- 12-12-2010 @ 6:11 PM
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trjford8:
Well, I passed my latest on to Bill Smith, so we'll see what happens. As some point in the future,
something will have to be done to address the lack of wide-5 wheels and drums. I'm sure that some enterprising type will fill the void long before I run out of drums.
Stroker
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trjford8
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-- 12-12-2010 @ 7:18 PM
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Stroker, Wheel Vintiques in Fresno, Ca. actually made an alloy wheel that looks like a wide five. It has the smaller bolt pattern . They made them a couple of years ago so I don't know if they are still in production. They currently make a steel "artillery" style wheel with the smaller bolt pattern that looks close and would look good on the 36-39 cars.
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