| 47Jack | -- 11-22-2010 @ 9:05 AM |
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Hi Folks.....I've had my fan and hub assembly seize up twice and was wondering what you guys do to keep it problem free. The owner's manual says to put 1oz of engine oil in and turn 180 degrees and let excess drain, every 5,000 miles. I talked to Mac VanPelt and he recommends using 90 weight oil every 500 miles. So far neither has worked. My questions are, what oil do you use and what procedure works best? Thanks in advance. Jack
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| Old Henry | -- 11-22-2010 @ 9:09 AM |
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My owner's manual for my '47 says put gear oil in every 5000 miles. It doesn't say anything about letting it drain out although I've seen an instruction stickers that says that. I just put it in and leave it. Works so far. I'm thinking that the oil method is not so critical and you probably have a bad bearing that needs replaced. Still Old Henry This message was edited by Old Henry on 11-22-10 @ 9:46 PM
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| supereal | -- 11-22-2010 @ 10:06 AM |
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Mac is right. The reason you turn the hub upside down and drain the excess is because there is no seal in the hub, and if the reservoir is overfilled, the excess will be deposited on the underside of your hood!
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| 47Jack | -- 11-22-2010 @ 3:06 PM |
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Thanks for the info guys. The hub that siezed was from E Bay so it may have been doomed when I got it. I double checked my owner's manual (reproduction) and the 5,000 mile interval must be a typo. I put another E Bay hub and fan on there and put 90 weight oil in it and I'll just hope for the best. I know I can get a shaft and spindle from Van Pelt and I will do that if I have anymore problems. Thanks again for your help, my next project is replacing the master cylinder. Eventually I'll get this truck road worthy. Jack
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| Johns46coupe | -- 11-22-2010 @ 3:25 PM |
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I've seen some rebuilt hubs for sale. Mine has no bushings, just the shaft and spindle. How do they rebuild them? John
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| Johns46coupe | -- 11-22-2010 @ 8:10 PM |
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I checked with C&G late today and was told they have NOS shafts and spindles in stock which are considerably cheaper than the rebuilt hub they sell. When I asked how they rebuild them, he said they add metal to the shaft by welding, then turn it down to the original spec. Sounds like that would result in a softer surface. Anyways, I ordered the NOS parts and gaskets. Hope this helps someone. John
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| Stenny | -- 11-23-2010 @ 8:23 AM |
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In addition to insuring that the fan hub resovoir is full, make sure that the belt is not too tight. It doesn't take much tension to pull the shaft off center and then the bearing and shaft start to wear.
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| supereal | -- 11-23-2010 @ 10:49 AM |
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There are no actual bushings or bearings in the hub. As the hub turns, a "dipper" picks up oil from the reservoir and drops it on the shaft. A "corkscrew" groove in the spindle carries the oil to the end, where it drops back into the reservoir. The survival of the hub depends on the oil film. This hub design is a classic example of "swatting flies with a sledgehammer", when the use of available bearings would have been better. As said above, the belt tension must be carefully set.
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| Texas40 | -- 11-24-2010 @ 3:06 PM |
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Guys, its not out of the owners manuals but on my 48 I oiled the fan hub with some good ole STP into the hole, rotated the hub a couple turns before turning down and letting the extra drain out. That has been months/years? ago (& probably way to many miles too) and I have not had one hint of a problem. STP stays on everything as you know if you get it on your hands. I also run my belt loose so it is not binding on the hub.
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