| fordson | -- 11-21-2010 @ 2:11 PM |
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So far i understand that when turning the winged ring around the horn button of a banjo steering wheel, the light switch at the bottom of the steering wheel column gets activated: 1. horizontal position: headlights off 2. 1 turn to right : parking light on 3. 1 turn to left: low beam on 4. 2 turns to left: high beam on Is that all? There was no dimmer switch incorporated, or can the low beam position be set equal to the foot operated dimmer switch? Iam asking, because i am sure my foot operated dimmer switch not to be original on my car. In addition, my car has indicator lights, which were definately not issued in 1937. I believe the activation of the indicators go with turning the winged ring around the horn button - which is definately not original. It is however an elegant solution to the usual aftermarket indicator switches that get attached to the steering wheel column with a clamp. There is no switch whatsoever near or on the steering wheel column to seperately operate the indicators on my car. Does anyone have experience with installation of additional aftermarket indicator switches or incorporating this feature into the controls of the banjo steering wheel? Regards Fordson
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 11-26-2010 @ 9:44 AM |
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FORDSON it is one click , and you are correct, about the way it works plus NO DIMMER SWITCH, NO RELAYS, if it is ORIGINAL The indicator light was added by law in 1951 by some states, this is what I am told,so it could have one, these were about 1/4 inch around, this light added to the LH side. above the push start button, MY 3 CENTS WORTH. 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,,,!! This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 11-26-10 @ 9:48 AM
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| depoebay | -- 12-15-2010 @ 2:35 PM |
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Question: I bought my '37 a few mos. ago and the previous owner put sealed beam headlights that I am now replacing with reflectors and 50/32 CP bulbs. I see that there is a dimmer switch on the floor board which you say is not stock for '1937. How then does one operate the high beams? I suspect from the light switch...one notch pull, low beams...two notch pull, high beams, right?? I would like to drive at night on high beams, is there any issues with overheated bulbs, or burning out bulbs with extended use? Thanks, Mike
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| Stroker | -- 12-15-2010 @ 4:14 PM |
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Depoebay: I have a 38, with the floor-mounted switch, so I can't address the 37 switch positions, which are different. I believe however, that it doesn't make any difference which filament you are burning in the bulb. All these pre-sealed beam lamps are pretty grim, light output wise. I don't believe that running on high beam with the stock 37-39 set-up will blind any oncoming traffic; and I also don't believe that the high beam filaments will burn out quicker than the low beam filaments would. Dad switched my 38 over to sealed beams in the early 40's; (if anyone out there wants any seal beam conversion doors, I've got a nice pair). I'm going back to the originals, since they look right. I don't plan on doing a lot of night driving; but if I did, I'd probably go to one of the many options available to convert to halogen or multiple LED's. LED technology just keeps improving every day. The real upside is that it takes so few amps to run them. Alan Simpson, 38 Ford owner whose beautiful Desert Sand "vert" graces the 38-39 restoration manual cover has stock lighting. I questioned the apparent brightness of his "eyes", and he stated that he has lined the buckets with aluminum foil to help reflect the stray light. Anything you can do to help maximize the light output will put you on a more even footing with the contemporary stuff. I have a photo of my 38, taken a few months after Dad bought it. To help with the night time illumination, he had installed a pair of "Trippe Safety Speed Lights", on the front bumper, about where you would mount fog lights, plus he had a dealer-installed spot light. I may go with LED's.
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-15-2010 @ 8:34 PM |
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depoebay, As a Purist, I applaud your restoring to original. I assume that your electrical system is 12 volt, and that you step down to the original 6 volt for your lights and dash gages? An 8 volt step down would be very bright, but would burn out the bulbs way too quickly. The 50/32 bulbs are my choice, and I have used both high and low beams extensively with only two bulb burn-outs, once on a rainy night with the aid of a Patrolman's flashlight. Stroker's praise for my '38 is based on pretty pictures of her. In the skin, she is obviously not a trailer queen, but is a faithful old driver. Alan
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| TomO | -- 12-16-2010 @ 7:35 AM |
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depoebay, Your light switch should operated by the ring around the horn button, not a pull switch on the dash board. It will operate like fordson described earlier in this post. Tom
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