| parrish | -- 11-17-2010 @ 7:20 PM |
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Well, door panel off and I have a mirror and a work light and I'm trying to determine what holds the glass in the channel as it is fighting back! There are 6 screws with washings holding the window crank mechanisim up inside the door panel, but not much else seems to be involved...what am I missing (besides some grey matter)?
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| TomO | -- 11-18-2010 @ 9:16 AM |
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Parrish, as I remember, the channel has a stop eccentric at one end. You must remove the eccentric bolt in order to allow the arms of the lift mechanism to come out of the channel, then you can tip the glass and remove it from it's opening in the door. Tom
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| doning | -- 11-18-2010 @ 9:22 AM |
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Remove all six screws. Push the door handle shafts through the round openings and carefully lower entire unit down. Loosen and remove the anchor bolt from the unit and remove regulator. Tilt window glass at an angle and lower to bottom of door and remove. Be careful so that you don't crack or chip the glass! The glass is pressed in a rubber seal in the channel and can be hard to remove. BE SURE to measure the glass in the channel before taking it apart so it will be correct during reinstalltion. Reverse process when putting it all back together. Hope this helps. Don
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| parrish | -- 11-18-2010 @ 10:59 AM |
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Much thanks to Tom and Doning. I had already removed all six screws but the mechanism window crank shaft wouldn't clear the inner panel hole. One of the members indicated the glass had to come out first to allow clearance for dropping the mechanism, so that's what I struggling with. I saw a small open gap below the glass at the right lower channel (this is the passenger door), but hesitated trying to pry the glass upward out of the channel before looking for advice. I'll look for the eccentric bolt...
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| parrish | -- 11-22-2010 @ 8:15 PM |
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Tom() Your memory was right on with the bolt. It was dead center and once removed, I slid the glass channel tray up and forward out of the door panel. No need to remove the crank mechanism at this point. I cut a couple "teeth" in an old flat putty blade and "sawed" the toughened channel gasket apart from the glass and then used a large wooden shim to nudge the glass up and out from one end of the channel. The channel tray had a fair amount of corrosion which I treated and it should be good for a few more decades! Thanks for the tip!
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| TomO | -- 11-23-2010 @ 8:11 AM |
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Parrish, save the old glass and don't clean it. Measure the position of the channel on the glass, so you can get the new glass in the same position. There is very little adjustment available to center the glass in the opening and if you have it too far to the front or back, it will tend to tip in the opening causing a bind. Tom
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| parrish | -- 11-23-2010 @ 8:22 PM |
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Tom() I figured there would be some 'gotcha' involved so I took photos and marked the glass before I removed it from the channel. I will need to leave the orginals with the glass company, so I figured worse case would be to set the new glass in the channel with a temporary gasket, balance, mark the glass, remove and re-install with permanent gasket...always something!
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| TomO | -- 11-24-2010 @ 8:31 AM |
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If you are having your glass cut locally, seal the cut edges before you install the glass. I taped the side of the glass and used an epoxy to seal the edges. Tom
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| deuce_roadster | -- 11-24-2010 @ 8:54 AM |
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Don't know where you are located but the folks who took over Sanders Auto Glass (used to be in Oregon, now in Vancouver WA) do the black edge and do a 1st class job. I have used them for a 40 convert and everything was perfect. They make thier own shipping boxes and are really good. their URL is www.sandersreproglass.com phone 360-883-4884 Good luck!
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