| sturgis 39 | -- 11-14-2010 @ 10:34 AM |
|
I BOUGHT AN OLD HOT ROD. IT IS A 34 TWO DOOR SEDAN. THE CAR CAME WITH A STUCK 39-48 FORD FLAT HEAD. I HAVE A REBUILT NEVER RUN 49-53 FORD FLAT HEAD I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL IN THE 34.THE TRANSMISSION IS A 1934 WITH A SAWED OFF SHIFT LEVER. WHAT KIND OF PROBLEMS CAN I EXPECT? ARE THERE BOOKS ABOUT THIS SWAP? TANKS
|
|
| supereal | -- 11-14-2010 @ 11:29 AM |
|
Two essential parts are the engine to transmission adapter. It is a ring that bolts to the rear of the engine to provide a clutch housing for the attachment of the transmission. There are two types: a pressed steel one and a cast ring. They were used in trucks. I don't have a source for them, if your engine doesn't already have it. Either will do. The other essential is a pair of 8RT water pumps. They will accommodate the wide belt water pumps and provide the front motor mounts. If you have a narrow belt crank pulley, that also will have to be changed. The 8RT pumps are available from C&G, 800/266-0470. The rest of the job is fairly simple, involving hoses, linkage, etc. C&G has an array of books. You can see them on their online catalog www.cgfordparts.com
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 11-14-2010 @ 8:25 PM |
|
In addition to Bob's advice you may need to use some spacers between the water pump mounts and the mounts on the frame. Speedway motors carries the spacers. You will have to run an ad for the pickup bell housing or look for one at a swap meet. They are not hard to find and will run about $50-$75. Try a want ad on this site and the Fordbarn. This message was edited by trjford8 on 11-15-10 @ 7:32 AM
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 11-14-2010 @ 10:21 PM |
|
Sturgis, you can expect to be disappointed in the transmission. A '34 tranny in a hotrod with a sawed off lever is likely to have some pretty sad gears. At least, pull the top for a look see. A few $$$ will buy you a '39 gearbox with a good synchromesh. A stuck engine could have been caused by a clogged radiator. Check it out. Assuming you have juice brakes, expect to replace the master and wheel cylinders, as it's probably been quite a while since it was on the road. Alan
|
|
| sturgis 39 | -- 11-16-2010 @ 2:30 AM |
|
I don't think the car has ran since the early sixties.It has been relocated several times around town. The room up front of the radiator seems to cause a problem with this engine swap. I guess the solution is to run a 39-48 camshaft, an old style distributor and old style water pumps. This will move everything towards the fire wall. I bought a partial brake kit from V8 Garage. I plan to purchase the rest of the kit sometime this winter. I have not looked in the transmission. I plan to take pictures when the top is removed and have you look at them. Thanks for the help.
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 11-16-2010 @ 7:07 AM |
|
I would tend to stick with the stock 49-53 distributor. I don't believe you will gain anymore clearance with the early distributor. This message was edited by trjford8 on 11-16-10 @ 7:08 AM
|
|
| supereal | -- 11-16-2010 @ 8:42 AM |
|
As Tom says, you won't gain by swapping distributors. In fact, it will make the situation worse. You would also have to change carbs, as the "posthole" distributor has no weights, and depends on a port in the carb for proper advance. It isn't unusual to have to relocate the radiator a bit. You need to get the fan close to the core, about 1/2 inch, if you can. We are currently putting an 8BA engine in a '38 tudor, and the "tweaks" are numerous. I'd be leery of any engine that hasn't run since the sixties. Internal rust and shrunken seals can cause lots of problems. A partial disassembly, at least, is a good idea to actually see what you have. I wouldn't use a non-syncro transmission, either. It makes driving, particularly in traffic, very tough.
|
|
| sturgis 39 | -- 11-16-2010 @ 3:11 PM |
|
I guess the center distance for the front motor mounts is different for the two engines. Could the bolts be heated and bent to make up this difference? Maybe use some hill side washers too? i guess you have to put a spacer between the front motor mounts and the frame because the old water pumps mounted in the heads. Let me know how to solve this problem or maybe it is not one. Thanks
|
|
| sturgis 39 | -- 11-16-2010 @ 3:12 PM |
|
I guess the center distance for the front motor mounts is different for the two engines. Could the bolts be heated and bent to make up this difference? Maybe use some hill side washers too? i guess you have to put a spacer between the front motor mounts and the frame because the old water pumps mounted in the heads. Let me know how to solve this problem or maybe it is not one. Thanks
|
|
| Stroker | -- 11-16-2010 @ 3:44 PM |
|
I did an 8BA swap on my 38 in the late 50's, and as I recall, I had to move the radiator forward about a 1-1/2 inches, which required making some brackets for the radiator to hood side panels, (which of course you don't have. Obviously, you can't move your radiator on a 34, so you might have to get creative with the fan, or at least the fan drive hub. I had to extend the crankcase draft tube with flexible steel tubing to clear the front cross member, letting it exit just behind the left side of the cross member. I'd opt for a 39 top-loader, as the 34 trans can be awfully hard to pull out of low after you've leaned on it with your much more powerful power plant. As an aside though, the straight-cut low-reverse slider is actually stronger than the later helical as it doesn't impart any axial thrust on the easily distorted transmission case. If you could source some original 34 motor mounts, there are two drilled and tapped holes just inboard of the water pumps on all flatheads from 32-53 that are there for just that purpose.
|
|
| Stroker | -- 11-16-2010 @ 3:44 PM |
|
I did an 8BA swap on my 38 in the late 50's, and as I recall, I had to move the radiator forward about a 1-1/2 inches, which required making some brackets for the radiator to hood side panels, (which of course you don't have. Obviously, you can't move your radiator on a 34, so you might have to get creative with the fan, or at least the fan drive hub. I had to extend the crankcase draft tube with flexible steel tubing to clear the front cross member, letting it exit just behind the left side of the cross member. I'd opt for a 39 top-loader, as the 34 trans can be awfully hard to pull out of low after you've leaned on it with your much more powerful power plant. As an aside though, the straight-cut low-reverse slider is actually stronger than the later helical as it doesn't impart any axial thrust on the easily distorted transmission case. If you could source some original 34 motor mounts, there are two drilled and tapped holes just inboard of the water pumps on all flatheads from 32-53 that are there for just that purpose.
|
|
| sturgis 39 | -- 11-17-2010 @ 4:32 PM |
|
Does anybody have comments about the difference in the width of the engines? Does somebody make mounts to correct this problem? This message was edited by sturgis 39 on 11-17-10 @ 4:38 PM
|
|
| Stroker | -- 11-17-2010 @ 5:11 PM |
|
There is no difference in the width's of 32 to 53 engines. The engines with the block-mounted pumps do have a wider center-to-center distance for the front motor mounts than the original head mounted engines. The bolt-on mounts for a 34 will bolt to your 8BA.
|
|
| supereal | -- 11-18-2010 @ 9:30 AM |
|
If you can't shoehorn a belt driven fan in place, you can borrow a page from the street rodder's book, and install a "pusher" fan in front of the radiator. This usually requires a 12 volt system because they draw a lot of current.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2173 |