| Tim_Bowers | -- 11-12-2010 @ 8:49 AM |
|
There seems to be a big difference between disassembling a car with broken, yellow glass compared to assembling a car with brand new glass, fresh paint, new fuzzies, etc. What is the "approved sequence" of installing the door and rear quarter glass and regulators. The notes and pictures I took when disassembling the car don't seem to apply very well when I'm trying to be extra careful during the re-installation, and I'm running into interferences between the regulator and the inner door structure trying to do it the way my notes suggest. I can't believe an assembly line worker had to have the same struggle I'm experiencing. Tim Bowers, owner Stellar Antique Auto Restorations www.stellarrestorations.com
|
|
| supereal | -- 11-12-2010 @ 10:17 AM |
|
Usually, the channels and fuzzy strips go first. Then the glass, with mounting bar attached, is inserted from below. We either have a helped hold it up ion place, or use some tape while we put the regulator into place, then crank the regulator until the arms will fit in the bar, followed by installing the "hair pins" to secure the arms. We prelube the channels with a spritz of silicone spray, and grease the regulator teeth with a dab or two of white grease, Don't put too much on, or it will attract dirt and other crud. The first thing most of us learn about working inside a door is to wear long sleeves because the openings commonly have very sharp edges that will lacerate your arms and hands.
|
|
| Tim_Bowers | -- 11-12-2010 @ 11:16 AM |
|
I was with you until "hairpins". I'm familiar with a more modern roller that would have a spring clip installed to snap onto the shaft of a regulator arm, but our '37 has a spring loaded flange on a swedged shaft that must come in from one of the ends of the lower channel runs at the bottom of the glass. If you have a minute to discuss this with me, my # is 620-489-6495 Thanks, Tim Bowers, owner Stellar Antique Auto Restorations www.stellarrestorations.com This message was edited by Tim_Bowers on 11-12-10 @ 11:18 AM
|
|
| Tim_Bowers | -- 11-12-2010 @ 11:17 AM |
|
Here's our original roller Tim Bowers, owner Stellar Antique Auto Restorations www.stellarrestorations.com
|
|
| supereal | -- 11-12-2010 @ 1:12 PM |
|
Tim: I was referring to the clips that retain the arms in the window channel. As I'm not familiar with your '37, I threw that in just in case your window assembly used them. Some just use rollers that run in the track and don't need to be fastened, as long as the arm stays in the track when the regulator is run to both extremes, on an open and closed window. I'm at our shop today, and my parts book with the regulators isn't handy. Because of their location and lack of direct visibity, window regulators can be tough to work on. When I bought my '47 convertible, someone had jerry rigged incorrect regulators in both doors, probably because the "real" regulators are very hard to find. We had to figure out how to restore it. The replacement regulators had bad teeth, and we welded on new teeth and used a die grinder to shape them. Lots of "fun", but now it again takes 9 turns to lower or raise the heavy framed windows just fine.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2166 |