Topic: New member in San Diego '37 Truck won't run


barnsmith    -- 10-31-2010 @ 6:18 PM
  Hello. Brand new to the flatheads and early Fords. I have been interested for several years, and have finally been bitten. I purchased a 1937 Ford pickup 1/2 ton with what might be a 48 Merc engine. I have been trying to get the truck running. It will not stay running. I am no expert but tried my hand at a carb rebuild from C&G. Carb still not providing enough fuel to keep it running and fuel pump provides steady fuel. I have replaced all electrical componants and changed the oil in preparation. I will surf the site here looking for answers, but welcome constuctive input from fellow members. The photo came from the seller and states 36. It is a 37 Bob

This message was edited by barnsmith on 10-31-10 @ 6:38 PM


TomO    -- 11-01-2010 @ 11:26 AM
  Check to see that you have a good blue spark that makes a crack sound when a plug wire is held close to a head nut.

The fuel pump should deliver enough fuel to keep the fuel bowl full at idle. If the engine is truly starving for gas and the fuel pump delivers adequate fuel, check your float level again.

Tom


37RAGTOPMAN    -- 11-01-2010 @ 12:35 PM
  if the truck was sitting for a period of time,
I would use a another fuel supply.
like a outboard motor gas container,
this way you can rule out from the flex line back,to the tank,
just attach to the "in" on the present fuel pump and start it up, now you know that you are getting plenty of fuel and its clean,
now if you have a problem it will be either the pump or carb, also be sure to recheck the line going into the carb and the needle and seat, that might have be come clogged as you were trying to get it going,
lets hear how you made out,
37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!!!!!!


barnsmith    -- 11-01-2010 @ 4:46 PM
  The engine runs great as long as I keep dumping fuel into the top of the carb, then dies. I am using the trucks mechanical fuel pump as it pumps as much gas as the electronic pump I had used first. I took the Holley 94 carb apart again and am staring at the C&G float level instuctions with included "L" shaped tool unclear of instuctions. This is my first time doing this and it's a bit confusing. If I can properly adjust the float I will reassemble carb and see if she will keep running. I was just searching for a weblink that would walk me thru this. No luck so far.

Here is another pic of truck too. Note the 36 nose.

Bob


ford38v8    -- 11-01-2010 @ 5:52 PM
  Bob, The included float gage is junk. Flatten a beer can and cut out your own gage, using the same dimensions, so that you have something you can use easily. Remember that the float may be out of kilter one side or the other, so use the gage on both sides, but not the middle seam. straighten the float to level, then use the gage.

Once you have the float level correct, close the two screws at the rear bottom of the 94 carburetor, only finger tight, then open them 3/4 turns each. start your engine, and it should run for you without dumping gas into the carb. At this point, you are ready to fine tune those two screws, which are the idle mix screws. One at a time, adjust them to run the engine at the fastest idle, while also lowering the idle adjuster on the passenger side. You'll have to go back and forth several times with these adjustments to attain the fastest idle the two screws will deliver, and the best lowest smooth idle speed with the throttle adjustment.

Alan


TomO    -- 11-02-2010 @ 7:10 AM
  Bob,

Here is a link to the information that you wanted on carburetor rebuild.

http://norgv8club.org/norg/index.php/headliner-newsletters-and-tech-tips/category/9-service-bulletins

The setting of the float level is on page 9 of the first PDF document.

This web site has a lot of useful information and should be bookmarked.

Tom


trjford8    -- 11-02-2010 @ 7:32 AM
  Bob, if that truck sat for a long time the gas tank may be full of gum or other junk. This would inhibit the amount of fuel that you can get to the carbruetor.
Check with the previous owner to see if they ever cleaned out the tank or used a sealer in the tank. Another problem may be the line itself. If it is the original line it may have rust inside that decreases the inside diameter. It's obvious you have a fuel delivery problem and it's a matter of determining the culprit.


barnsmith    -- 11-02-2010 @ 5:18 PM
  TomO,

Great link. Thank you. I have reset the float, and I will put the carb back together on Thursday and see how she runs.

Bob


barnsmith    -- 11-02-2010 @ 5:34 PM
  trjford8,

Oh yeah.... I don't have any idea when the truck ran last, as the seller took the truck in trade for money owed on another project and I have no history of past ownership. It was sold not running and as is. I bypassed the tank knowing it was full of potential trouble. I even thought the tank was empty as the first 10 attempts to start the truck nothing even so much as a drip came of the pumps discharge outlet. Well it was quite the surprise when the fuel line became unplugged and shot nasty old gas all over the place. I disconnected the tank and ran fresh fuel thru the pump, cleaned out the sediment bowl and used fresh fuel from a gas can to continue on. The carb float has now been adjusted to provided specs and I will put the carb back together thursday and try to start it again. More to follow...

Bob


barnsmith    -- 11-03-2010 @ 7:50 PM
  Update on startup. The float adjustment did the trick. Thank you all for the advise. Now it's time to pull out and inspect the water pumps and order a new radiator as this one looks like a park fountain when getting filled. After the cooling issues are fixed the juice breaks need addressing. I must admit I am having alot of fun with this project. I am including a picture of the engine this time. Anyone know for certain what year it is? I have been told it was a '48 Mercury.


barnsmith    -- 11-03-2010 @ 7:56 PM
  And here is a picture of the other side.

Bob


Kens 36    -- 11-03-2010 @ 8:00 PM
  Barnsmith,

Your engine is an "8BA" which was used on '49 - '51 Fords. The unused mounting holes toward the rear of the left head are for the oil filter and would indicate it it from a '50 or '51 as opposed to a '49. Of course the heads could have been changed.

Ken


barnsmith    -- 11-03-2010 @ 8:24 PM
  Kens 36, I would prefer it be a Ford motor as apposed to a Merc. Would this be 100 HP? Or ???

Bob


trjford8    -- 11-03-2010 @ 8:37 PM
  The Ford and Merc motors look the same. The only way to tell if it is a Merc is by the extra 1/4 inch stoke of the crankshaft. You might see 8CM on the heads which are the Merc heads, but many times they were put on the Ford motor.


TomO    -- 11-04-2010 @ 8:49 AM
  The 49-51 Ford engine was 100 HP.

Tom


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