| FRITZ47 | -- 10-26-2010 @ 6:45 PM |
|
I have a bad coil on my 1947 Ford V8. I checked most every major supplier and the original sytle coils have been on backorder for months. Two suppliers suggested buying a 6-volt non-ballast round coil with mounting bracket from NAPA for at least temporary use. Some said the original repro coils are imported and of questionable quality and that the round coil is a better option and more dependable. Have some questions: 1) Should the coil resistor (under the dash) still be used with the standard coil? 2) Can the standard replacement round coil be mounted with the large center wire opening facing down, for easier hookup to the existing wire, since this wire is presently connected to the bottom of the original coil? 3) Some suppliers show a mounting kit, which I cannot figure out by looking at the picture. Could use some ideas on how to hookup and mount this round coil to get my car running. Thanks, Fred
|
|
| woodwagon47 | -- 10-26-2010 @ 7:02 PM |
|
You are right, the repo coils made off shore are junk. You can send it out and get it rebuilt. Look in the V* magazine there are a couple guys doing it. E-mail me at woodwagon47@gmail.com. I will give you a phone number to call Larry Halter
|
|
| woodwagon47 | -- 10-26-2010 @ 7:04 PM |
|
You still need the resistor on top of the coil to cut the voltage down or you will burn up the points
|
|
| FRITZ47 | -- 10-26-2010 @ 7:35 PM |
|
The resistor on my 1947 Ford is under the dash up high and just about centered over the steering column. Just to be sure, I ordered and received a new resistor today from Dennis Carpenter and plan to install it with a new coil from NAPA this weekend. This will hold me off while having the original one rebuilt. I have several sources for rebuilding, but want to get the car on the road before the winter sets in. Is it OK to install the standard round tubular coil with the main wire opening facing down? (Usually I have seen these mounted to the fire wall with the large wire opening facing up). It would sure make for an easier installation. Here is a picture of the original coil that is now on the car - it looks good, but cuts out as soon as car is warmed up. Thanks for the quick replies. Fred
|
|
| FRITZ47 | -- 10-26-2010 @ 8:06 PM |
|
What about this statement from an earlier post on this forum? "Most tubular coils have a built in resistor, so the original resistor should be bypassed." Others say that if resistor is bypassed the points will burn up. So I guess my question if whether or not to bypass the resistor after installing the new tubular coil from NAPA? Here is a picture of my original coil that is presently installed on the car, but not working properly. Thanks, Fred
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 10-26-2010 @ 8:42 PM |
|
Fritz, the internally resisted coil is usually marked on the outside that says it is internally resisted.It would also have a different part number than the non-resisted coil.
|
|
| oldford2 | -- 10-27-2010 @ 4:34 AM |
|
Send your coil to Skip Haney for a rebuild with modern components. That will end your coil problem. 941-637-6698. Call him and describe your problem. He is the best. Don't waste your time and $$ on imports or changing to a later coil. John
|
|
| FRITZ47 | -- 10-27-2010 @ 6:35 AM |
|
Thanks for all of the advice. I pulled the coil this morning and called Skip Haney. Unfortunately got his recording, so left a message and am in hopes that he gets back to me so that I can ship my coil to him and not have to deal with improvising and temporarily installing a generic coil. Skip has a web site at www.fordcollector.com Fred
|
|
| supereal | -- 10-27-2010 @ 9:06 AM |
|
Almost all generic tubular coils have a built in resistor. It serves the same purpose as the firewall mounted original: to reduce the system voltage as engine speed increases. The original coils have a primary resistance of .47 to .51 ohms. If you measure that amount, an external resistor is needed. You can mount the tubular coil in any position. For a temporary substitution, we use a worm gear clamp similar to the radiator hose variety to hold it to the bracket. With the scarcity of foreign repro coils, I imagine Skip is knee deep in work.
|
|
| Old Henry | -- 10-27-2010 @ 12:34 PM |
|
Mac's has the coil you need in stock for $97.00 at: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-ignition-coil-6-volt-v8-quotfordquot-script-also-6-cyl-quotgquot-1941-47-black-case-1ga-12024-f/camid/F30/cp/JS0R3CHL1140682/ Still Old Henry
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-27-2010 @ 4:12 PM |
|
send the coil to SKIP. you will be back on the road is 3 weeks, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,,,
|
|
| 40guy | -- 10-27-2010 @ 4:28 PM |
|
The unit from Macs is many times mistaken for a coil. It is actually a Chinese sranding device.
|
|
| 40guy | -- 10-27-2010 @ 4:31 PM |
|
My mistake: STRANDING not Sranding.
|
|
| FRITZ47 | -- 10-27-2010 @ 5:05 PM |
|
I talked to Skip Haney by phone this AM and shipped my coil for rebuilding and also am going to have him check or replace the condenser and resister. Glad that he was recommended - Thanks, Fred
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2080 |