| gmharlow | -- 10-26-2010 @ 6:11 PM |
|
Where can I find the best procedure to follow to prepare a 36 Ford to start after 6 years in storage?
|
|
| Stroker | -- 10-26-2010 @ 6:52 PM |
|
I'm not aware of any "cut-and-dried" published procedures, but if it were mine, I'd do the following: Drain the fuel tank, as any fuel that is 6 years old is un-usable. I'd disconnect the fuel line at the pump, and blow compressed air back to clear the fuel line of any old fuel, and then refill the tank with non-alcohol gasoline. If you have trouble locating non-alcohol fuel, visit your local airport and get some 80-86 octane avgas. I'd drain the oil, and refill with a quality lube (my personal preference is Valvoline Racing 30 wt.). I'd pull the plugs, and after adding a very small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil, Rislone, Sea Foam or equivalent upper cylinder lube in each plug hole, spin the motor to lube the cylinders. Replace the plugs, check the coolant level, and it should fire right up. At this point, watch for coolant leaks, especially around the water pumps, and warm the engine up throughly, in order to circulate the clean oil, purge the upper cylinder lube out of the cylinders-It will smoke a bit on start-up. This forum has lots of contributors who have pulled cars out of storage, and I'm sure that they will contribute their thoughts as well. We all do a pretty good job of learning from others who have done this.
|
|
| supereal | -- 10-27-2010 @ 9:17 AM |
|
Good advice, Dan. In addition, I recommend turning the engine over by hand after placing oil in the cylinders to be sure it isn't stuck. After that length of time, it is likely there is enough oxidization of the ignition points to warrant replacement. When we encounter a car that has been stored, we expect that it may have been put away because either it wouldn't run, or ran poorly. Almost always, the oil pan and valve chamber contains lots of sludge due to inactivity aznd/or the use of non-detergent oil. This indicates that the oil pump screen and galleries are probably partially plugged. If you do get it started, be sure to drain and replace the oil in a very short time, and use a good quality high detergent oil, such as Rotella, to suspend the debris so it can be drained.
|
|
| drkbp | -- 10-27-2010 @ 10:30 AM |
|
gmharlow, I went through this last month with my '35. I would also clean the carb because the fuel has dried up in there with residue. Mine had been undriven for 5-6 years. My fuel pump wasn't working so I had a nos one that I put on. I use the sediment bowl style so any junk will settle out in the bowl. There will be "stuff" coming out of that fuel tank. Battery was shot too. New 6-volt. Ditto what the others have said on oil, etc. Drove mine to the office today. Weather is nice in Texas right now and the best thing for the car is to drive it. The water pumps have set in water all that time and need to keep an eye on them. They will squall if not lubed right. Hope this helps, Ken in Texas
|
|
| gmharlow | -- 10-27-2010 @ 6:00 PM |
|
Thanks to Stroker, supereal, and drkbp for the great advice. Now I know where to start to get my car back on the road. I welcome any other comments that anyone wishes to post. Thanks again.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2079 |