| woodwagon47 | -- 09-26-2010 @ 5:48 PM |
|
I have a 1947 Ford V8 That runs well after a valve job and over haul but when it gets warm it wants to slow down and quit. I have had it for a long time and have driven it quite often. I used to have an electric pump on it. I am going to rebuild the regular pump as the suppliers say they have had a lot of problems with diaframs due to the additives in today,s gas.Could the diafram be bad once it heats up? Should I rebuild the pump and put an electric on it for backup.Once it cols down it starts right up and runs fine until it gets warm. I am also replacing a water pump as one is leaking.
|
|
| 35ford | -- 09-26-2010 @ 6:34 PM |
|
I would try a different coil to see if it makes a difference. On a trip back from Georgia meet one of our group had "vapor lock" and after the 3rd time we changed the coil and drove home to Ct. with no more problems and it got even hotter as the day went on. Just a suggestion!
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 09-26-2010 @ 6:58 PM |
|
The diaphragm is not effected by temperature. Remember, it is bathed in gasoline. I concur with '35ford'. Of the symptoms you describe, coil and / or condenser. I'd place a heavy bet on that. This message was edited by kubes40 on 9-26-10 @ 7:00 PM
|
|
| tip | -- 09-26-2010 @ 9:28 PM |
|
It wouldn't hurt to check valve clearences.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-27-2010 @ 4:35 AM |
|
woodywagon47 It sounds like a bad coil, try this warm the engine up till it starts to act up, shut in off, put a ice pack on the coil, once the coil is cold and engine hot see how it runs, if it runs good send the coil out to get rebuilt, there are several vendors in the V8 TIMES. if you have a fuel problem, either hot or cold should not matter, also check the ignition resister,make sure it has clean contacts. wiring termials and contacts,and is working properly make sure you find the problem before replacing any parts, also a little valve top oil [ MMO ] would not hurt anything, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,,,,,,!! This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-27-10 @ 4:47 AM
|
|
| 40guy | -- 09-27-2010 @ 7:30 AM |
|
It sounds like it's either the coil or the condenser or both. Sometimes on a hot day, gas with ethanol can cause "vapor lock" also, due to the ethenol lowering the boiling point of the gas.
|
|
| woodwagon47 | -- 09-27-2010 @ 9:19 AM |
|
I have installed an electronic distributor or a conversion on the car. It has no condensor. Who rebuilds coils for those V8,s Can you use the same coil used on a Model a as a test coil?
|
|
| woodwagon47 | -- 09-27-2010 @ 9:21 AM |
|
I just had a complete valve job done. This has happened before I had the valve job done. I replaced about 8 valves and valve guides, had the valves and seats ground and set them to the specs in the motor manual.
|
|
| woodwagon47 | -- 09-27-2010 @ 9:26 AM |
|
Need to know who does rebuild those coils. You have a good idea with the ice pack. I think I will try that. I have about 3 coils extra that I can play with.but I have to rebuild the water pump first. That is leaking. Henry should have mounted the coil in front of the radiator, that would keep the excessive heat away from it. woodwagon
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-27-2010 @ 10:27 AM |
|
The best, and probably the only one, who really rebuilds coils is Skip Haney. He does it for $83 total cost, including shipping. You can reach him at 941/637-6698, or e-mail at skip@fordsrus.com "Vapor lock" claims have always dogged old Fords. Almost all the time, the coil faded when hot. We have a bunch of old coils, and none of them will work because the insulation deteriorated over time. See Skip's ad on page 98 of the most recent V8 TIMES.
|
|
| TomO | -- 09-27-2010 @ 10:34 AM |
|
I suspect your electronic distributor. Check your spark at idle when cold and when warm. You should have about 1/2 inch of blue spark when a wire is held close to a head nut. I would not try to rebuild your fuel pump. There have been problems with the current supply of diaphragms. Speedway has the Offenhauser fuel pump for your car. It has worked great on my car. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|9/27/2010%201:30:55%20PM=fuel%20pump&deptId=0&free_text|9/27/2010%201:33:00%20PM=flathead Tom
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-01-2010 @ 9:59 AM |
|
woodywagen, is your car 6 volts,or 12 volts, you said it has a modern distributer conversion on it, does this dist use a regular 6 VOLT standard coil with the voltage resister in place ? if you are using a modern conversion distributer, you might have to use a matching coil, so the 2 are matched,electronic distributer, electronic coil, it would be nice to know all the mods that were done, to give correct repairs, that are needed, Would make a little easier. when knowing, hope this helps,my 3 cents worth, 37 RAGTOPMAN,an KEEP on FORDIN,,,, keep it original and keep in simple
|
|
| Old Henry | -- 10-01-2010 @ 10:43 AM |
|
I solved a similar problem recently by just using higher octane gas. It is less volotile and less prone to vapor lock. Later I also found that the fuel hose from the end of the copper line to the fuel pump was pulling off of the crimping. Any little leak in that would "vapor lock" the fuel pump with air just the same as vaporized fuel. Still Old Henry
|
|
| supereal | -- 10-01-2010 @ 10:55 AM |
|
I agree with TomO. We have removed several electronic conversions when the owner reported poor performance or stalling when the engine was hot. This seems to be typical of electronic gear. I fail to see the advantage of these conversions, as a properly set up original distributor with quality points should run at least 15,000 miles with no problems. For the average old car, that is many years.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1921 |