| Steves46 | -- 09-20-2010 @ 5:47 AM |
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Yesterday, I finally got around to installing a replacement speedometer cable and sheath in my 46 Ford. After connecting both ends and ensuring there were no sharp kinks, I took it for a drive and after traveling a few feet, I heard a snapping noise. When I looked at the connection point at the transmission area, the sheath had a loop and snapped the cable! Obviously, something caused the cable to bind. When I made the installation, I tightened the screw cap; should I have left it a bit loose so the cable could have movement? I am beginning to think the cable was too long and I forced too much inside the drive mechanism. I would like to find an NOS piece this way I can be pretty sure that the length will be correct. Before I go through this again, is there a correct way to install these? I am thinking next time; I will remove the cable, install the sheath first and then run the cable through. Open to any suggestions. Many thanks!
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| supereal | -- 09-20-2010 @ 9:28 AM |
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Most replacement inner speedo cables must be trimmed a bit before installation by matching to the old one. If it is too long, it will kink when in place. The best practice is to replace both the inner cable and sheath at the same time, being sure to lube the inner cable as you insert it into the sheath. The whole assembly is not much more expansive than the inner cable alone, and often the sheath has problems that are not visible that can snag and unwind the inner part.
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| Steves46 | -- 09-20-2010 @ 10:27 AM |
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Thanks Super. I had a feeling that this was the case. Unfortunately, I do not have the original to measure against. I will be keeping my eyes-out for an NOS one. Can I use a Dermal cutting wheel to trim the cable if necessary?
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| 1932BB | -- 09-20-2010 @ 10:38 AM |
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Try A.C.I. Engineering, 6728 Lovers Lane, Portage, MI. 49002 (269) 327-1991. They make them and have stats for many applications. They made a new one for my 32BB and it was a bolt-up-fit.
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| supereal | -- 09-20-2010 @ 10:53 AM |
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I'd order the cable and sheath assembly. C&G has them for under $20. (B-17260-R). The problem with fitting new inner cables is the forming of the squared end, if necessary. Years ago, every garage had a fixture that made the end when it was smacked with a hammer. Now that speedos are all electronic, only the specialists can do it correctly.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-20-2010 @ 10:15 PM |
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Steve, The squared end of the cable is usually long enough so that a small adjustment will work for you. A dremel should work. I've used a small file on mine. Better just a tad short than binding up. Lube the whole length of the cable as you feed it into the sheath. This is also your best and easiest opportunity to get some great looking stains on your upholstery. Alan
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| 40 Coupe | -- 09-21-2010 @ 6:24 AM |
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according to the green parts book p-629 the casing is 68" long and the inner shaft 69" but I would not cut the inner shaft to this length without first fitting it.
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| TomO | -- 09-21-2010 @ 8:12 AM |
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Dennis Carpenter lists the cable and housing in his online catalog for $15. It should be just a little longer than the stock cable and housing, because he claims that it will fit the 39-40 Mercury. You should not have to shorten a cable that came with the housing. I would return the cable and housing that lasted 0 miles to the vendor. You should be able to take any cable and sheath that is within -0 to +2" of the stock measurements and install it with only normal precautions. The extra length can be taken up by storing part of it under the dash and the rest in the length to the transmission. I would lubricate any new cable with a graphite based cable lube and then install it as an assembly. If you are just replacing the inner cable, you will have to shorten it to match up with the housing that you have and crimp a new end at the speedometer end of the cable. Again, I would lubricate it with a graphite based cable lube. Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-21-2010 @ 10:57 AM |
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Another tip: Be sure that the sheath is kept away from any part of the exhaust system, a particular concern with dual exhaust. The heat will cook the lube and result in a noisy or broken cable.
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| Steves46 | -- 09-23-2010 @ 11:28 AM |
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Thanks to all for the helpful tips. Since I am running dual exhaust, I need to determine a better routing of the cable. Totally agree that the heat will make short work of the cable.
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| 37 Coupe | -- 09-23-2010 @ 11:39 AM |
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Something else you might want to look into is a product called Sil-Glide or Glyde under and at NAPA name,small tube of silicone grease and is for lots of rubbing areas and specifies for speedometer cables,got good cold and heat ranges,sure better than the old graphite stuff. I slathered the heck out of cable before putting in casing,still there and quite.
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| Steves46 | -- 09-23-2010 @ 3:33 PM |
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Thanks. I have a tube of it and will lather the cable up good with it.
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