| 35Phaeton | -- 09-18-2010 @ 6:07 PM |
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I was successful (using a spring spreader), in removeing the front and rear leaf springs from the frame and axles, leafs were disassembled for d&c and the old shackle components have been removed from the spring leafs and radius rods.....now the hard part... How do you install the new shackle studs?? They appear slightly larger in diameter than the holes at the two ends of the leaf spring and radius rods. Jim
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-18-2010 @ 10:36 PM |
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Jim, I have heard that NOS studs were a bear to install, so I used the teflon variety. Easy to install, but not correct, of course. A dab of black paint does wonders, though! Alan
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| flatheadfan | -- 09-19-2010 @ 5:03 AM |
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These things are a nightmare. If you are going with the metal-jacketed studs the best way I found to install them was with an adjustable reamer. However, I gave up the fight with these things years ago. I am now using rubber sleeves or you can use Teflon. Much easier to install and they hold up surprisingly well without any undo body sway. Incidentally, the rubber sleeves were a Ford authorized replacement option. Tom
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| 40guy | -- 09-19-2010 @ 5:56 AM |
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Clean the holes very good. Use a good round file to evenly file the holes until the stud assembly pushes in with a very snug fit. Be patient the filing may take a while as you will file some then test the fit. The idea is to get a snug fit not take off too much material. With this method and patience you will be able to accomplish this. This is the way I put in my steel jacketed { original } type ones. They are going to sort of rust in place anyway.
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| kubes40 | -- 09-19-2010 @ 6:35 AM |
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To install the original steel jacketed pins requires the proper tool. The pins were produced about .003 - .004" oversize for a specific reason. That reason being to provide resistance to the torsional twist being applied by a flexing spring. Without that resistance, the spring is allowed to flex too far and an amount of stability is lost. To fit the pin to the hole is a big no-no. To do that is akin to replacing a worn out pin with a worn out pin. I have a KRW tool for this job and am just now working with a fellow V8'r that plans on reproducing this tool. The KRW tool allows for the proper installation in under a few minutes. Hope this helps... Mike Kubarth
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| 40 Coupe | -- 09-20-2010 @ 5:45 AM |
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do not increase the size of the hole in the springs and the radius rods. As kube mentioned you will be asking for future problems. The original size is 3/4" so a reamer of this size can be used to clean out the holes, without removing the housing metal. then the new shackle can be pressed into the holes. The original screw press is a hard tool to locate but it does make the job easy. trying to drive the shackle in with a hammer results in the outer metal sh*ll deforming. since the springs are disconnecter you can have their new shackle pins installed on a hydraulic press they have to start straight and use a tool to press on the outer sh*ll not the center bolt.
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| 35Phaeton | -- 09-20-2010 @ 8:27 AM |
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Thanks for your responses...... Would using the kit from c&g with nylon bushings and smaller studs still provide the benifits and saftey of the torsinal twist feature ? My first choice is to install the original style...when installing/pressing in the new shackle studs, do I have to pay attention to how the square on the shackle bolt is positioned in relation to the circle on the spring as well as the circle on the radius rods?? Jim This message was edited by 35Phaeton on 9-20-10 @ 8:28 AM
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| supereal | -- 09-20-2010 @ 9:23 AM |
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If you depend on the grip of the spring eyes on the shackle pins, it isn't much. We use the Teflon type for ease of installation, and have the shocks provide the stability and reduce the likelihood of spring breakage.
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