| BigBlockFord | -- 09-18-2010 @ 3:49 PM |
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I recently removed my fuel gauge to correct the liquid level. Attached are pictures of the gauge I removed, and one that I purchased through Hemmings as a restored unit. My gauge has an rectangular cap that fits over the filler hole, the restored one has no cap. Are there two variations of these? Also, the restored unit has a metal pin in the air tube that looks like it may prevent the air line from attaching. ???
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| BigBlockFord | -- 09-18-2010 @ 3:50 PM |
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Restored gauge pic
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| BigBlockFord | -- 09-18-2010 @ 3:51 PM |
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Last pic
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| 1883warren | -- 09-18-2010 @ 6:57 PM |
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In any event, there has to be a vent at the top of the glass tube, to allow the red fluid to rise and fall. I can't remember how I used to add fluid to mine, but I believe I used a small plastic hypodermic needle thing with a tiny plastic line attached. You have to add fluid every now and then to maintain the level in the glass. Actually, these gauges work very well, but the line must be clean and open, and it must be tight and NO leaks. Tank and fuel must be clean too, to prevent plugging of the small holes and lines in the sender unit itself. I had that happen once ~ Warren
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| 1883warren | -- 09-18-2010 @ 7:11 PM |
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My present '36 has an electric gauge of course. I bought a new electronic sender from Mac's and followed their instructions as to the length of the float arm. Tanks are 8 inches deep. I ended up welding 3 additional inches of similar steel wire to the arm, over what they reccomended. Finally... it now reads correct. At least it is easy to take in and out, for the work. Be SURE to ground your tank with a wire from the body or frame to the sender cap. Also be sure to ground the body TO the frame & enigne. I ground everything on my cars. Half of all starter problems with 6v are cable SIZE and GROUNDS.
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