| parrish | -- 09-15-2010 @ 7:46 PM |
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Are modern day spark plug wires sufficient for 6 volt system or are they too small with too much resistance?
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| 42wagon | -- 09-16-2010 @ 3:23 AM |
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Parrish Original color coded 6 volt ignition wires are available from the usual sources. Why fool around with modern 12 volt ignition wires? Ted
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-16-2010 @ 4:59 AM |
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RHODE ISLAND WIRING make a great set,about $40.00 or so, correct for running and for judging, CHECK OUT THEIR WEB SITE,!!! IF YOU WANT TO USE A RADIO, this presents a problem, because in the new MODERN wires there is no metal, has a carbon tracer,there is no way to shorten them and installing differnt ends, You will have to adapt modern plugs with resisters built in, there is no problem with modern wires if you can get them to fit, hope this helps 37 RAGTOPMAN ,an KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!! This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-16-10 @ 5:03 AM
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| kubes40 | -- 09-16-2010 @ 6:55 AM |
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Modern 7mm wires will operate properly on your engine. I have used them numerous times with clients that didn't care about authenticity. I have the proper tools to make custom length sets. I tend to agree with the others who have answered your post in that for your 'one time' need, buy a set from one of the suppliers of Early Ford V8 parts...
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| supereal | -- 09-16-2010 @ 10:49 AM |
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Avoid non-metallic conductors. Solder all end connectors in place. Non-metallic conductors were designed to reduce radio interference, but any improvement is minor, and the connectors are often unreliable. Good copper core sets usually run the $50 range.
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| ole_Bill | -- 09-17-2010 @ 9:58 AM |
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In my performance street flathead, I'm running a 21A distributor converted to 6V pos electronic. The 7mm ACCEL wires I have already have the spark plug connectors and boots on them. I need to trim the wires to length and connect them to the crab distributer cap. Is this going to be a problem? Do I need a special tool?
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| kubes40 | -- 09-17-2010 @ 11:15 AM |
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If you are trimming, I suggest you trim the distributor end. You can but the terminals for that end that simply push into the end of the wire. I would suggest you solder them as well to assure a great continuity. If you trim the spark plug end, then you should have a special tool that 'rolls' the new end into the wire. I have the ends (either side) if you can't get them. I can send you some.
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| carguy | -- 09-20-2010 @ 4:49 AM |
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What do the terminals for the distributor end look like? We manufacture spark plug wire sets for later fords (YBlock) and we have the what I would call standard ends. Does my '34 need to use something special?
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| supereal | -- 09-20-2010 @ 9:36 AM |
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If you use the early style plugs with the removable terminal nuts, you will need the wires with the ring ends. The ends varied with the years. Some are straight, some are bent, and others have boots. As I recall, the distributor ends are the same, although "crab caps", an sixes need boots as well. In any case, don't depend on the crimps to hold the terminals to the wire. They should be soldered.
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| ole_Bill | -- 10-14-2010 @ 5:18 PM |
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The ACCEL wires have no metal conducter. I tried to measure conductivity between ends with no success. How would this be soldered?
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| shogun1940 | -- 10-14-2010 @ 6:23 PM |
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I take carbon imprinted wires and trim an inch off the end, fold the carbon/nylon back over the end and slide on your terminal and crimp,, never had a problem doing it this way
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| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1864 |