| EWATERS | -- 09-08-2010 @ 1:32 PM |
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I just read the forum discussion by "MichV8" re "Water pump, new vs old." I have a 1950 Ford with a 6-cylinder engine that is being rebuilt. Until reading the discussion, It had not occurred to me that the original water pump might need rebuilding. I have a question that may bring a few chuckles to you more experienced mechanics; i.e., can the condition of the water pump be evaluated before it is reattached to the rebuilt engine and installed in the car?
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| nelsb01 | -- 09-08-2010 @ 1:44 PM |
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The obvious answer here -- is yes and no. So, now that I have confused you, let me say that if the mounting surface is warped -- you may not be able to see that. I have found that if the water pump turns with some force, then it probably has some life left in it. If it spins pretty easy, then think re-build. You are lucky that 6 cylinders have only one water pump, and are somewhat easy to replace compared to the V-8. I am sure there will be other answers.
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| ole_Bill | -- 09-08-2010 @ 2:36 PM |
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I totally agree - yes and no.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-08-2010 @ 4:28 PM |
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when in doubt, replace so you do not have problems down the road, not unless you would rather take a chance, to see how long it will last before it make a mess out of the engine compartment, you can also grab it and see if there is any play in it.if it wrobbles and has play in it replace it,and if you spin it if it makes any noise, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
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| 51f1 | -- 09-08-2010 @ 4:31 PM |
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I wouldn't rebuild an engine w/o rebuilding or replacing the water pump. Richard
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| supereal | -- 09-09-2010 @ 9:11 AM |
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The critical parts of the water pump are the seal and the bushings or bearings. Both are subject to wear, and should be replaced or rebuilt if you don't know if or when they were changed. In the case of the inline engines, most have the fan attached to the pump pulley, and if the pump seizes, the likely outcome is a ruined radiator. The seal is lubricated by a small amount of coolant that escapes onto the surface, so if you see a bit of weeping from the hole in the pump body, it is normal, if not excessive. All water pumps benefit from a water soluble oil in the coolant, marketed as "anti rust". Many newer cars are now fitted with plastic pump impellers, and we see higher rates of failure as a result. When the shaft turns, but the impeller doesn't, catastrophic overheating is the usual result.
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| EWATERS | -- 09-09-2010 @ 2:51 PM |
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Thanks for all your responses & ideas. The original engine and hence the water pump had just under 23K on the odometer. The pump turns stiffly; i.e., it doesn't spin easily or wobble. I'm inclined to gamble that it is still viable for use. Just out of curiosity, how much can I expect to spend on rebuilding the water pump if needed?
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| EWATERS | -- 09-09-2010 @ 2:51 PM |
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Thanks for all your responses & ideas. The original engine and hence the water pump had just under 23K on the odometer. The pump turns stiffly; i.e., it doesn't spin easily or wobble. I'm inclined to gamble that it is still viable for use. Just out of curiosity, how much can I expect to spend on rebuilding the water pump if needed?
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| EWATERS | -- 09-09-2010 @ 2:52 PM |
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Thanks for all your responses & ideas. The original engine and hence the water pump had just under 23K on the odometer. The pump turns stiffly; i.e., it doesn't spin easily or wobble. I'm inclined to gamble that it is still viable for use. Just out of curiosity, how much can I expect to spend on rebuilding the water pump if needed?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-10-2010 @ 5:04 AM |
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you can probably buy a new pump from KANTER AUTO PARTS in NJ,they have a web site, I think you get a lifetime warranty with the part. they handle 6 cylinder FORD PARTS,were other FORD venders do NOT, Hope this helps, 37 RAGTOPMAN, and KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!
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| supereal | -- 09-10-2010 @ 9:02 AM |
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You can find new pumps, rebuilt pumps, and rebuild kits on pages 104 and 105 of the C&G catalog. Unless you are intent on trying rebuilding, it is more time saving, and usually less costly, just to replace pumps. I hope this doesn't further stir up the acrimonious "discussion" elsewhere on the Forum. My earlier suggestion that converting to ball bearing pumps was based on the proven fact that the life of the bushing type pumps is compromised by overtightening the drive belt. When I added an alternator to my car, it required making a smaller drive pulley to turn the unit enough to have it come on without overrevving the engine. To do this, the belt must be much tighter than recommended to prevent slippage, raising the probability of excess wear of the pump bushings. In general, old car enthusiasts are divided into two camps: the purist, who wants to return the car to "the way Henry built it", and the hobbyist, who wants to drive and experience his vehicle. The former likely needs little information regarding the "right way" to put the vehicle into pristine condition, The latter is often someone with limited mechanical experience who seeks the input of those who are more seasoned to ease their dilemmas, and locate reliable sources of parts, services, and materials. Both are essential to keeping our Club alive, and should be accorded attention and respect.
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| TomO | -- 09-10-2010 @ 9:50 AM |
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IMHO it is not a good idea to risk damaging a rebuilt engine that cost over $1,000 by not replacing a part that costs around $100. Tom
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| parrish | -- 09-11-2010 @ 9:05 AM |
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cost question: couple hundred from Skip Haney new: 99-130 for pair if you do the install yourself, use Alan's tip of cutting all-thread short stubs as a temporary pump hanging device and then remove one at a time and install new permanent bolt
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