| johnpoly | -- 09-07-2010 @ 2:35 PM |
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I've appreciated the wide participation of those who offer solutions to V8 problems. My current problem is that I need to get to the valve train to replace valves, springs etc. The problem is that most of the 42 studs are frozen in the heads and won't budge. I'm using PB Blaster but no luck so far. The stud removal tool I have will not hold its grip. Please help with you suggestions. John
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-07-2010 @ 5:19 PM |
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wrap pieces of rags around the studs, so it holds the rustbuster on the studs for a few days.and runs down the studs,also a GOOD HEAT GUN. will helps, and rent a GOOD STUD REMOVER,SNAP-ON sells a good one, if you own a FORD, you might as well start your FORD TOOL COLLECTION, hope this HELPS, 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,,,,!!!
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| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-07-2010 @ 7:45 PM |
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Did you know there is a stud cleaner tool to clear the corossion between the stud hole in the head and the stud? It looks like a mini hole saw about four inches long that slips over the stud. You turn and cut the crud that seizes the head to the stud. I use penetrating fluid also while cutting to soften the crud. Its a bit slow but at least you can save the aluminum heads. Once you cut all holes down to gasket, the head slips off so easily. Note; if you check closely,two of the holes are flat oval to center and align the heads. If you have nos heads on the shelf you will clearly see what I mean by the two smaller stud holes. Those two holes should not be cut with tool, it will damage the tool. I had borowed the tool from a friend and dont know where he got it. I made a cheap copy with a tube from a Ford automatic passing gear tube(1970-80) and filed a cutting edge about 5 teeth and then brazed on a hex nut on top as a driver for a speed wrench. Hope this a valuable help and info for you.
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| supereal | -- 09-08-2010 @ 7:24 AM |
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You didn't say if your heads were iron or aluminum. If the latter, using a hole saw will likely render the heads not reusable. When we encounter a stuck stud, we weld a nut to it. The heat will almost always break the rust bond. Turn the stud both ways a little bit to work it loose before bringing it out. This method will require stud replacement, but that is a good practice, anyhow. If you plan to clear the threads, use a tap made for that purpose. A common threading tap in old cast iron often will damage the already fragile threads. In any case, be sure to use a good sealer on all studs when you put the engine back together.
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| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-08-2010 @ 5:19 PM |
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Obviously supereal doesnt know about tool for the job. Ive seen guys welding on motors before and hope you do not do the same. I took a picture of my professional tool to credit myself. I am a professional tech. and own a shop for over 26 years. I grew up on machinery. In no way will a good tool ruin a piece of equipment. I even ran the tool through some of my nos heads to help demonstrate how well this tool works. See for yourself on pictures below. I just thought I could share some of my experience...
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| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-08-2010 @ 5:20 PM |
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see picture
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| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-08-2010 @ 5:21 PM |
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see picture
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| Keystone 34 3w | -- 09-08-2010 @ 5:22 PM |
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last one.
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| supereal | -- 09-09-2010 @ 9:00 AM |
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I didn't say that the hole saw wouldn't work, only that it commonly ruins aluminum heads, regardless of how carefully it is used. Often, it isn't much of a loss, because any head that is bonded to the studs is likely eroded enough to warrant replacement. We use the welded nut procedure to minimize the possibility of block damage. The common mechanical stud pullers, more than usually, result in at least one or more studs being broken off in the block where it requires drilling, a job best left to the pros. We use the welded nut trick on lots of stuck studs, as well as bolts, such as those holding the exhaust manifolds. As said, the heat causes the rust to break. I've been working in the trade for a bit more than 60 years, and learned that one early in the game. Beginning with the 8BA engines, Ford finally went to head bolts, rather than studs. Thankfully, bolts almost always come out with little trouble. This message was edited by supereal on 9-9-10 @ 10:49 AM
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