| flathead48 | -- 08-24-2010 @ 5:30 AM |
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I put in a new condenser from Napa, their part ECH FA54, it lasted just 1/2 mile and quit. Is this the right condenser or did I just get a bad one. Thanks
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| 51f1 | -- 08-24-2010 @ 8:18 AM |
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You can find these listed at NAPA's web site. That is the correct number for 239 L-head engine distributor condensers. I assume they mean '48-'53 8RT, 8BA and EAB engines. What makes you think that something is wrong with it? Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 8-24-10 @ 8:18 AM
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| supereal | -- 08-24-2010 @ 9:27 AM |
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Usually, the last thing you did is the cause of a new problem. Check both the condenser mounting bolt, and the connection to the distributor input terminal. If either is loose, that could be the problem. Also inspect the connection of the terminal to the condenser. They occasionally pull loose when the connection is tightened, as they are commonly just crimped on. If all seems OK, it is also possible that the terminal on the distributor body has shorted to the case as the terminal was tightened. Of course, new parts can, and do, fail. Substitution will tell you if that is the cause.
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| flathead48 | -- 08-24-2010 @ 12:13 PM |
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Rich, Thanks for your reply. The car quite about 1/2 mile from my home. Would not start, had no spark. put the old condenser on and it purred like new. Rick
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-24-2010 @ 4:01 PM |
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I stay away from NAPA for electrical parts, I used a old VW condensor for my 37 and I mean old it is from the 1960's it was NOS. but was old stock the car starts right up and does not skip a beat, I had some old DELOC REMY FORD CONDENSORS on this web site for sale at $10.00pp [ REAL NICE AMERICAN MADE ] and had NO TAKERS, if you want a picture of it let me know, PART NUMBER F -201 LOOK like can be used or adapted to be used,looks like no big deal NAPA sells CHINA parts,for the most part., you pay the price but do not get the quality that you pay for, from many of these auto part places, my 3 cents worth.37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 8-25-10 @ 8:57 AM
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| Norm | -- 08-25-2010 @ 10:43 AM |
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I've had the same problem as flathead48 on my '48 F-1 H- series 6 cyl (same condenser as the 8BA, I think). I had pulled the distributor, checked everything out, replaced points and condenser, checked point gap carefully, re-installed it, timed the engine and about two days later it started to run like cr*p. Had to be towed home. Ah, the indignity!! I've been working on cars and engines in general for over fifty years and have never come across a bad condenser (until now, that is), but by process of elimination that's what it was. Put the old one back on and it runs like a new truck. I did notice that the new points were showing the results of arcing, too - even though it had only a few hours of operation on the bad condenser. I don't remember where the bad condsenser came from, but it could have been NAPA. Here's the question for all you smart guys (and I mean that sincerely) out there: Does anyone know of a way to check a condenser before you go through all this agony with a bad one? Once burned, twice cautious. Norm
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| 51f1 | -- 08-25-2010 @ 11:12 AM |
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Flathead48: If it won't run with the new one and will run with the old one, I'd say the new one is bad! I would guess that, like lots of other parts for our old trucks and cars, they are made in some foreign land that just doesn't have the same quality control as we used to have. I have installed many a new condenser, mostly years ago, and I have never found a bad one. You know, there's really no need to change a condenser unless it's bad. I'd suggest, if it works, leave it alone. Richard
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| supereal | -- 08-25-2010 @ 12:13 PM |
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The easiest way to check a condenser is to use an ohmmeter. Put the leads across the condenser body and terminal. If the needle goes up and stays, the condenser is shorted. If the needle jumps up and falls back, it is likely OK. If the needle doesn't move, reverse the leads and watch the needle. If it stays quiet, the condenser is open. Most, if not all condensers are foreign made today and, like much of that stuff, is unreliable even if national branded. If your vehicle has been running OK when you tune it up, be sure to save the condenser. I keep one in my "road kit" with a set of clip leads connected to it. If the condenser quits, the spare can be clipped on. It also makes a good diagnostic tool to determine if the one on the vehicle is bad.
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| TomO | -- 08-25-2010 @ 1:00 PM |
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I would add to Supereal's comment: Use a meter with a needle, not a digital meter and have the meter on the highest ohm scale. If the meter goes to 0 and stays there, your capacitor is shorted. Some digital meters claim to check the value of a capacitor. The only one that I have found to be in the ball park is an expensive Fluke. Some of the other cannot even detect an open capacitor. Tom
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| flathead48 | -- 08-25-2010 @ 3:15 PM |
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Thanks again to all. Rick
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| supereal | -- 08-25-2010 @ 4:18 PM |
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Thanks, Tom. I forgot that the analog meter is becoming obsolete (like the rest of us). We have a very expensive Fluke at the shop, but my ancient Heath Kit analog V-O-M gets used more often. We had a condenser checker at the dealership, but it wasn't as accurate as a short walk to the parts department for one to sub.
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