| Allan1cars | -- 08-01-2024 @ 6:54 PM |
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Just purchased a 36 with flat head, six volt, any thoughts Can you put another battery having two to help It was 100f when I picked up the car after driving 30 miles would not start Any help
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| CharlieStephens | -- 08-01-2024 @ 7:56 PM |
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Beautiful car. Step one, put your general location in your profile. Don't try the brute force solution of a second battery, find and fix the problem. Did the amp meter show a charge when driving the car? With the engine off and you turn on the headlights does the amp meter show a discharge? These cars were positive ground and sometimes people instal the battery backwards. When it didn't start, did the lights work? Was it completely dead? Are the battery cables heavy ones designed for 6 volts or the smaller cable designed for 12 volts? Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 8-1-24 @ 7:59 PM
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| 51504bat | -- 08-02-2024 @ 6:10 AM |
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Delete This message was edited by 51504bat on 8-2-24 @ 6:11 AM
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| JayChicago | -- 08-02-2024 @ 10:15 AM |
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Welcome! Hope we can help. Did it not crank, starter not turning? (that's what CharlieStephens is addressing) But "did not start" says to me it was cranking but did not start, did not fire. That is a whole different problem. Which was it in your case? This message was edited by JayChicago on 8-2-24 @ 10:16 AM
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 08-02-2024 @ 10:33 AM |
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Well, the first clue is that you state that it was 100 degrees when you picked up the car. It might be vapor lock. It sounds like you are new to flatheads and vapor lock is a common problem. Why would you go thru the expense and labor to install another battery, as others have said, cure the problem. Does the car have an electric fuel pump? Have you checked all the electrical's, especially the grounds? When was the last tune up, plugs, points, rotor, cap wires and condenser? How is the starter, was it rebuilt? Lot's of other things to check before you start adding more batteries. It look's like a very nice car, get it running right and enjoy it.
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| Dream38v8 | -- 08-03-2024 @ 11:28 AM |
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After I purchased my 1938 Ford Deluxe sedan I experienced the same issue. The engine got hot and killed at a stop light and wouldn't restart. After the car cooled down (below 160) the car restarted. This site is a wealth of knowledge. I was informed my starting issue could be the coil. Many or almost all aftermarket coils are of cheap design and manufacture. I was instructed to contact Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, Fl (941.505.9085). Skip rebuilds coils to modern day standards. This solved my problem. Just another helpful idea. Ray
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| carcrazy | -- 08-03-2024 @ 12:09 PM |
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To get the car to start when it is very hot, you can use starting fluid. If that won't get the car to start, look into problems with the ignition system.
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| RAK402 | -- 08-03-2024 @ 2:12 PM |
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I agree with what Dream38v8 suggested. If it cranks, but won't fire... I have had issues with repro coils failing when hot-usually the car will run but, once shut off, will not re-start until the coil cools down. This is often mistaken for vapor lock, which is an entirely different issue. I too went to Skip Haney to get my coil re-built (on the recommendation of the people on this forum) and have not had this issue any more. If it cranks very slowly when hot... Make sure that EVERY battery connection is clean and tight (both on the ground and the negative side) and that the starter case is making good contact to its mounting. The engine should crank briskly.
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| gwistrup | -- 08-03-2024 @ 3:08 PM |
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Lots of people condemn the 6 volt system and switch to 12 volts when there is a problem with excessive resistance in the 6 volt starting system. My 1940 Tudor cranked OK when I purchased it but after I replaced all of the positive and negative cables, it cranked over considerably faster. The original cables didn't really look that bad but obviously there was a problem with them. 6 volt systems need clean connections and the correct wire gage to function correctly.
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