| f1tom | -- 08-13-2010 @ 12:41 AM |
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As a result of a crack in the outside surface I will be replacing the right engine head. It is iron and has been on since a rebuild in 1977. I'm asking for any advise on the best way to remove it. I'm mainly concerned about breaking a stud or removing one while loosening the head nuts. Also prepping and installing a replacement. Thanks for any help, Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-13-2010 @ 6:10 AM |
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buy a GOOD can of rust buster, spray the nuts and soak them for a few days, wrapping the nuts with a piece of cloth and soaking the cloth,this will retain the rust buster so it does not run off, then try loosing the nuts with a short breaker bar,and see if they break loose, some will while other might not, on the ones that do not, try heating the nuts with a torch, be carefull, there will be some that will tell you to replace all the studs, this is a good plan if you are talented in this process of removing them and can drill out the broken ones,, I for one would use the old studs,[ if they are in good shape ] after the head is off use a die to chase the treads, so the new nut will go on easily.and use emery cloth to clean the studs,[ VACUUMN EVERYTHING UP,and use a rag STUFFED in the cylinders, with a little oil on it to catch some of the dust etc ] DO NOT SCTRATCH THE TOP OF PISTONS if you are cleaning them also, if a lot of carbon becareful in removing. I would use a small vacunm while scr*ping the pistons. and use a scotch bright pad to clean the top of block, use a little never seize on the studs and nuts, this should work out,for you has for me for many years. you can replace the head gasket and use a sealant on it. use very little , just a coating will do, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,, why was the HEAD CRACKED ??? FROZEN ???
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| supereal | -- 08-13-2010 @ 12:26 PM |
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Tom: Don't be "spooked" by the job. Unless there is some unseen damage, the head will come off the studs with a bit of prying and tapping with a soft faced hammer. If a stud comes out with the nut, just clean it off when you replace the head, and be sure to coat the threads with a non-hardening sealer. To install a replacement head, have a machine shop inspect the head to be sure the mating surface is straight. If not, have the head surfaced. With iron heads either a composition of copper faced gasket will do. We use a Permatex spray with copper. Place the gasket over the studs, then the head. Starting from the center and working outward, tighten the head nuts to 50 to 60 ft lbs. After running the engine for at least one hundred miles, retorque the head nuts to spec.
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| 40guy | -- 08-13-2010 @ 1:06 PM |
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Good advice from all. The only thing I would add is this: The head will only come off straight. If if gets cocked at all it will bind on all those studs. Be patient, when it's straight it will come off fairly easy.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-13-2010 @ 1:49 PM |
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Tom, cracked heads are not a common occurance. If you base your diagnosis on seeing water coming out from around one of the studs, your problem is likely not a cracked head, but rather, a stud that had been installed without being properly sealed: Some studs go through to the water jacket, and must be installed with sealant. Alan
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| f1tom | -- 08-13-2010 @ 3:48 PM |
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Thank you all very much for the response and great info, gives me a good level of confidence to proceed. The problem is a very small amount of weeping about 7 o'clock just below No.1 spark plug relief. Tom
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| FrankM-RG5 | -- 08-14-2010 @ 12:27 AM |
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Try some of that copper barrs leak stop. If you have to pul the head check out www.fordbarn.com. There is a pictorial on how to make a head puller for a Model A but I am thinking it should work on your car. I am not familiar enough with the earlier engines to say for sure.
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