| Cherokee | -- 10-20-2009 @ 9:04 AM |
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I use Rotella T 15-40w for several diesels I own and was wondering how it would do in my flatheads and some 50-60's overhead valve engines I have. I contacted a Shell Headquarters Technician for advice.....he said "the Rotella T 15-40w should work well in these engines". It would sure make things simpler to use the same oil in all if it would work as well as other recommended oils. But before I decide to take his advice, I'd like to hear the opinion of the Forum gearheads....what do you guys think? Any advice or opinion will be appreciated.
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| supereal | -- 10-20-2009 @ 3:53 PM |
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You can use Rotella oil without problems. The main difference between that and conventional oils is the higher detergent content. Diesels are very dirty engines, and need the extra detergent to keep the soot in suspension so it can be filtered or drained. Those engines make so much soot, you can change the oil, and when you check it after only a few miles it, too, will be black. We buy Rotella in 55 gallon drums, as the big trucks we service can take 5 or more gallons per change. Rotella is now also available as a synthetic oil, but I wouldn't use it in old cars, as it tends to make small leaks larger.
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| Cherokee | -- 10-20-2009 @ 5:05 PM |
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That's good news.......thanks much.
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| 42guy | -- 10-20-2009 @ 6:25 PM |
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I have been using it for 8 years in my 42. It does get black soon but have had no problems with it.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-22-2009 @ 5:04 PM |
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hi usually black oil in a gas car means it has gas is getting into the crankcase, check to see if it is running too rich, check your plugs, if black with soot, maybe you can ajust the carb and make sure the choke goes all the way off, hope this helps,37RAAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 10-23-2009 @ 8:38 AM |
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If the Rotella oil gets black quickly in your flathead, it is likely that it is encountering sludge deposits such as those common in the valve chamber. It will probably take a couple or more frequent oil and filter changes before the condition improves. Diesels operate with a very high compression ratio of 20-1 or more, causing lots soot to be pushed past the rings. Excess soot in your gas engine should be checked with a dry/wet compression check to see how the rings are sealing. If you are not allowing the engine to get to operating temperature and stay there for ten miles or more, it is likely that unburned fuel is also contributing to the soot.
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| 42guy | -- 10-23-2009 @ 7:26 PM |
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Bob, Yes it is getting better with each oil change. I was having problems with Champion plugs but since changed to NGK. The Champs were getting sooty real quick. The valve chamber was really clean for a used engine This message was edited by 42guy on 10-23-09 @ 7:28 PM
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| supereal | -- 10-24-2009 @ 10:17 AM |
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Sooty plugs almost always indicate a too rich fuel mixture. I'd check for a seeping power valve and/or a carb float that is either in need of resetting, or has leaked. A poorly seating float needle is also a possibility. I'd pull the carb, fill the bowl, and set it on the bench overnight to see if fuel is leaking. My Champion RJ14YC plugs with the long tip stay clean. It is likely you will have sooty plugs again if the cause isn't fixed, regardless of the brand.
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| 42guy | -- 10-24-2009 @ 7:18 PM |
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Bob, Nope plugs are right color now.Tanish to light brown color.Carb was rebuilt by well known rebuilder.I was using H-10, maybe I try the ones you use.
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