I am going to replace the clutch on my '39 Deluxe Fordor. The entire car chatters when you are trying to back up a slight slope like a driveway, it also chatters between gears when going forward. I've managed to engage the clutch so the chatter is not so bad, but when I first got the car out of restoration 17 years ago this chattering was never an issue for many years. I've checked and replaced the motor mounts and had multiple opinions from guys with Early Ford V-8's and a pro go through it and tighten everything that could be causing the chatter as well, and the consensus is that it is the clutch that needs replacing.
I have some questions about the job and ordering up replacement parts ahead of time. I'm going to have the pro who is a friend do the job and give him a hand when he needs it. I seem to recall some interesting stories of the of different methods to get the job done but I'm interested to hear what you guys have to say about the pros and cons replacing a clutch different ways.
Which vendors do you recommend for a new clutch plate? I thought I recalled hearing on this forum about a certain clutch plate that had a nice feel to it compared to some others. Aside from the clutch what other parts do you recommend I get and replace as long as we're in there?
In a related issue, my speedometer turtle gear keeps getting busted. The speedometer and the cable works fine when I turn the cable with a drill. However when a new turtle housing is installed it will ultimately fail with the gear of the turtle getting it's teeth stripped. I thought maybe I was installing it wrong and had a different pro install it and it got stripped then too. I was told that I needed to replace the transmission interface with the turtle when I get into the clutch project, but I'm not sure what to ask for when ordering or what is involved with that.
Thanks so much!
This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 9-14-23 @ 10:50 AM
Here's the "catch"... if the flywheel must be faced, the engine must come out to remove the oil pan. Well, it (oil pan) can be removed with the engine in, but it's easier to simply pull the engine in my opinion.
Mike Driskell sells a nice quality kit. Do NOT simply change the disc. You will be sorry if you try to save a few bucks by not swapping out the disc, plate and bearing.
With the chattering you describe, I'd insist on facing the flywheel if the car was in my shop. Too much work involved to do the job half as---.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
I'm definitely not looking to cheap out on it, we'll do it right.
Unfortunately Third Gen (Mike Driskell) is out of stock of the clutch kit for the '39 at the moment according to their website. I'll have to give them a call to see for how long. Aside from price is there a difference in quality of clutch parts with different vendors? If the flywheel can't be refaced are they available to purchase?
Do you have an opinion on the part in the transmission that drives the Speedometer turtle gear and how to replace it?
Thanks!
NO on Ft. Wayne.
The drive gear is actually in the torque tube. There's a snap ring in there that is easy to R&R. Pull that and then a spacer and the gear comes out.
The gears are easy to come by. I have some if needed.
I have run into just one flywheel that I was not able to clean up properly.
If you need one, I have them as no doubt Mike does.
Oh, when the trans is out, it's a good time to check the bushings that are fit to the clutch release shaft. Also the shaft itself. Check the adjusting linkage too along with the clevis pins. A little wear in any of these places adds up exponentially at the pedal travel.
Check the pedal bushings and the shaft as well. All are easy to fix and cheap while the stuff is on the bench.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
So backing up a bit, if I'm planning on facing the flywheel from the start, would you (or can you) take the motor and transmission out of the engine bay together? Or is the only way to pull the back axle and detach the tranny and then pull it up and then remove the engine separately?
With the grille in the car, I would not personally attempt to R&R the engine / trans as an assembly.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
when you have it apart, be sure to check the drive shaft front roller bearing,
question do you have a grease fitting on the torque tube, ? if so there is, a center bearing inside the torque tube,
this could be some of the problems you are having, if it is bad,
let us know how you made out,
hope this helps 37 Ragtopman,Maine
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Any other vendors you can recommend if Third Gen (Mike Driskell) remains out of stock? I didn't get to call them yet as I've been on the road.
Thanks!
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
I like to remove the hood and radiator, remove the front seat (to keep it clean) and floor boards, unbolt the engine steady rods, unbolt the trans from the engine, remove the starter, unbolt the exhaust pipes, remove the intake manifold and ground straps.
I would look at your motor mounts again. Clutch chatter is rarely the result of a worn clutch. All motor mounts sold are not the same quality as the original ones. If you have the hardware for you old mounts, use it with new cushions and try out the car. Here is a link to a long discussion on motor mounts https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=10545&keywords=Clutch%20chatter
Tom
I prefer Drake mounts.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth