| aikidonorthwest@gmail.com | -- 08-13-2023 @ 6:48 PM |
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I have a 1952 Ford F1 PU. It has the original flathead V8. I recently completely rebuilt the motor. The problem I am having is that the thermostats won't open up. I have just replaced the water pumps with new improved pumps, replaced both thermostats, had the radiator gone thru. and it still is doing the same thing. I just tried bypassing the heater core. still no change. I'm t0ld there is a way to "burp" the cooling system. Can anyone help me solve this problem please!
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-13-2023 @ 7:57 PM |
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Some thermostats have a small bypass flow, some don’t. Some stats are located high in the hose, some in the neck of the head, and some are mounted backwards. If hot water can’t get to the stats, they stay closed. Drill a 1/8” hole for a bypass, and check the location and orientation. The burp you mentioned refers to the heater having trapped air. Route the hoses: pass head>bottom heater>top heater> pass water pump. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 8-13-23 @ 7:57 PM
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| Drbrown | -- 08-13-2023 @ 7:59 PM |
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I admit I've not heard about "burping" an engine cooling system. I gather you're thinking that air is trapped in the block and assume you check the coolant level in the radiator neck. (1) Check to see that your new thermostats are working right - on your kitchen range with a cooking thermometer. (2) Didn't say - does it overheat/boil over ? - what does your gauge say ? (3) Be sure the thermostats are facing the correct direction. (4) The thermostat flappers should have enough loose fit that any air air trapped in the cylinder head below should seep by. Some guys drill a small hole in the stat to encourage this.
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| coup | -- 08-14-2023 @ 6:25 AM |
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Remove temp sending units
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| kubes40 | -- 08-14-2023 @ 7:04 AM |
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Alan is spot on. Trapped air is / was commonplace in the 70's as many vehicles had the heater core located higher than the engine's water jacket. There were times when it seemed nearly impossible to "burp" the system. If your heater is routed correctly as Alan had advised, the air will eventually find its way out of the system. Did you test the thermostats prior to installing them? New does not necessarily equate to good. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| carcrazy | -- 08-14-2023 @ 9:59 AM |
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Once had a VW Vanagon with the Wasserboxer engine. This vehicle featured a water cooled rear engine with a front mounted radiator. After a coolant change, the front of the vehicle had to be raised one foot higher than the rear to purge air out of the cooling system. The procedure involved opening some bleeder valves while running the engine until all of the air was out of the system.
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| aikidonorthwest@gmail.com | -- 08-14-2023 @ 10:46 AM |
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my thermostats are located on the head. 1952 8RT motor. Aluminum heads. Based on what you said, I think I had the heater hoses backwards. Head to top, water pump to bottom. Is that backwards? I have now bypassed the heater core, just linked the head hose to the water pump hose. Still no change. I did check the thermostats on the stove before installing. They worked, but the old ones worked just the same.... so it seems the thermostats aren't the problem. Thanks for your help and input!
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| TomO | -- 08-14-2023 @ 11:48 AM |
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You never answered the question about overheating. I would remove the upper hoses and see if coolant is reaching the thermostats. You may have to remove the thermostat housings to see this. There may be a blockage in the block or head. Did the cooling system take the full 21 quarts of coolant? Drain and refill to check. Some coolant (1-2 quarts) will remain in the block after the draining. Tom
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