| parrish | -- 08-06-2010 @ 8:03 PM |
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I woke up this morning and thought: "my, what a nice day...what will I do? I KNOW! I'll remove the old rubber from my runningboards!! Anyway, it really wasn't too bad. Question: I'm down to the metal, should I epoxy primer first or just glue the covers to the metal? I have no idea what kind of mastic 3M supplies for contact cement and wonder if it will react to epoxy primer? But will only glue and no primer prevent rust...any suggestions? Also, attached is a picture of the 2 boards. Driver side has definite 'grid' imprint in metal, passenger side is pretty smooth. One must be a replacement, right? Probably passenger side??
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| trjford8 | -- 08-06-2010 @ 8:29 PM |
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parrish, the boards look nice and clean. Do not primer them as the glue may react to the primer.You will notice some indentations in the metal where the braces support the boards. You will need to fill those indentations with body filler so they are level with the metal. If you don't fill them they will show up as the covers will conform ot the indentations. Prior to glueing down the covers you should use some wax and grease remover(basically naptha) to clean the metal on the boards. On the back side of the covers you should use some laquer thinner to clean the rubber. Also use a scotch brite pad to roughen up the rubber for good adhesion.
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| buford8 | -- 08-08-2010 @ 8:57 AM |
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Depending on where you live and how the car will be used, consider coating the boards on both sides with a good two part epoxy primer (to avoid rust and enhance adhesion), this primer is available at Auto-body supply places.Then you can apply bondo over the primer,(no sanding if you do it the next day) After sanding the bondo to make the boards smooth you can apply the adhesive and attach the rubber in the usual way. Most new rubber covers come with instructions and you should be OK if you follow them. One tip: after applying the adhesive to the inner two inches of the board I used a series of paint stir sticks to keep the rubber from touching the contact cement surfaces until I was ready to stick it together, the paint sticks can be slid out as you progress with the glue. I did about two-three inches at a time.(I used disposable paint brushes to apply the contact cement to the boards and the rubber) I did my '40 boards this way two years ago, look great and seem to be standing up well.
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| parrish | -- 08-08-2010 @ 9:13 AM |
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super car! thanks for the primer info. I haven't seen too much that expoxy primer can't handle, but wasn't sure of the 3M stuff... FYI: Paint sticks work, but even easier is wax paper. Just cover the target surface with multiple sheets, plop the new on top, and slide the wax paper out. We use it all the time with remodels.
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| buford8 | -- 08-08-2010 @ 12:11 PM |
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Sounds like you must be skilled with Formica?
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| 40guy | -- 08-08-2010 @ 6:24 PM |
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I have PPG DP90 epoxy primer on my boards too. 12 years-no problems.
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| parrish | -- 08-09-2010 @ 9:04 AM |
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good news...I'll spray 'em! thanks
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| parrish | -- 08-09-2010 @ 9:06 AM |
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oh yeah, Buford8: we use wax paper a lot on wood veneers which can be tricky to line up (and way more expensive than formica)
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| parrish | -- 08-09-2010 @ 9:06 AM |
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oh yeah, Buford8: we use wax paper a lot on wood veneers which can be tricky to line up (and way more expensive than formica)
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