| chucky | -- 05-29-2023 @ 4:10 PM |
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Does anyone have any thoughts on preventing vapor lock. Thanks...
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-29-2023 @ 5:28 PM |
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Oh boy. Well, let’s start off the conversation with a collection of wooden clothes pins on the fuel line under the hood. Next traditional fix was to squash half a grapefruit onto the fuel pump. Better than both of those, run without a hood. An electric fuel pump acknowledges the reality of modern fuel. And then, what’s old is new again, a fuel return line to the tank keeps the fuel moving and liquified. Alan
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| carcrazy | -- 05-29-2023 @ 10:14 PM |
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One thing to try is to wrap the fuel line with a layer of fiberglass cloth covered by a sheet of aluminum foil. You can use zip ties to keep the foil in place.
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| Jacques1960 | -- 05-30-2023 @ 3:44 AM |
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Are you sure it’s not a bad coil ? Symptoms can be very similar.
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| chucky | -- 05-30-2023 @ 4:56 AM |
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Thanks for the help guys, I have a rebuilt skip haney coil. Would running an electric fuel pump solve the problem?
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| trjford8 | -- 05-30-2023 @ 7:25 AM |
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An electric pump may help, but first make sure your gas tank is nice and clean. One time I thought I had a vapor lock problem. As it turned out there was a piece of crud (small piece of gasket sealer) floating around in the tank. Every so often it would get near the pickup tube and shut off the gas. If I waited it would dislodge itself and the car would start back up. I would check the inside of the tank before doing anything else.
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| TomO | -- 05-30-2023 @ 8:15 AM |
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Excerpt from my V-8 Times article: Insufficient fuel delivery: This condition shows up when driving at highway speeds as a miss or the engine dies. Vapor lock occurs when the fuel pump output pressure is very low and the engine is hot. It is much rarer than commonly thought. Most cases of suspected vapor lock can be attributed to another problem such as a weak coil or condenser, but can be caused by a weak fuel pump. To determine if you really have vapor lock, remove the air cleaner and look in the bowl of the carburetor, while operating the accelerator linkage. You should see two streams of gas in the carburetor if you don’t, you have a fuel pump problem. Fuel pump pressure is controlled by the return spring under the diaphragm, too little pressure means the spring is weak, too much pressure means the wrong spring was used. Pressure should be between 1.5 - 3.0 lbs at all engine RPMs. Too much pressure will not allow the float to control the amount of fuel in the carburetor bowl, low pressure will affect fuel delivery. To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas. Insufficient fuel delivery can be caused by a vacuum leak, plugged flex line, worn pivot in the pump arm, stretched diaphragm, plugged fuel line or tank pickup, plugged tank vent or wrong gas cap or a worn push rod. Following the above instructions should help solve your problem. Tom
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 05-30-2023 @ 9:33 AM |
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Bad gas cap?? Paul in CT
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| Drbrown | -- 05-30-2023 @ 9:34 AM |
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I currently have similar problem but think its my coil. Historically I have not experienced vapor lock. I have a vented gas cap. I have a refurbished "Points" distributor w/cap, rotor etc and Bosch coil from Charles S. and new gas tank, fresh gas, electric pump as start/back-up, insulated gas line to pump, rebuilt engine pump and carb from Charles. When cold, engine starts and runs great. The engine runs fine at any speed. However after I drive it locally and then let it idle a bit, it quits and will not try to restart. The engine is not overheating - runs at 165 degrees. However, at that point the Bosch coil is very hot - can not hold finger on it. As a spare I carry a Bubba's Pentronic electronic distributor and his coil with built-in resistor. So I immediately replaced the Bosch coil with Bubba's and the engine started right up but was coughing and gaging terrible. I had to run the engine at high RPM to keep it going. So shut it down not wanting Bubba's coil to damage something. The engine CAN run fine without defects etc so I think distributor points, cap, rotor, condenser and wires are okay. Waiting to hear opinion from Charles before buying a new coil. This message was edited by Drbrown on 5-30-23 @ 9:42 AM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 05-30-2023 @ 2:57 PM |
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did you try a fuel sample to make sure there is no water in it ? or dirt, is the front to real line new or real clean? is the flex line in good condition, not leaking air in ? check for fuel pressure and OUT PUT of fuel pump did you try cleaning the carb, flush it our with GUM OUT you never said what year car you are tryig to fix, this would help. hope this helps 37Ragtopman
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| kubes40 | -- 05-30-2023 @ 4:18 PM |
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Guys, TomO is perhaps the sharpest ol' boy I have had the privilege to know. I'd take certain heed of his advice. Vaporlock? I have NEVER experienced it. NEVER. Folks that know me, know my cars are built correctly. No short cuts. TomO has been helpful numerous times in those endeavors. Bottom line? Yes, vapor lock most likely exists but if the car is set up properly, the odds of it happening are near zero. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| JayChicago | -- 05-31-2023 @ 11:33 AM |
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Chucky I agree. Follow TomO's good advice. I suspect at this point we don't know if it is a fuel problem or a spark problem. The simplest test in the world exists to confirm/eliminate fuel delivery as a suspect. Step 1 should be looking down the carb as TomO describes, when the problem occurs. This message was edited by JayChicago on 5-31-23 @ 12:34 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 05-31-2023 @ 8:24 PM |
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I have experienced vapor lock with my '53 Flathead. It took extreme conditions to make it happen. While driving through the desert in June of 2016 during an extreme heat wave where the ambient temperature was hovering around 120 degrees F and the engine coolant temp was 220 degrees F for mile after mile. At first the car would exhibit vapor lock after being parked. Later it suffered vapor lock while running down the highway at 55 MPH. Finally we had to pull off the road and spend the night in a roadside hotel. After that, we limited our driving during this continued heat wave to the hours of 6 am to 11 am. On these days at 11 am we would stop driving to spend the rest of the daylight hours in air conditioned places. The drive home through the desert took much longer than it would have in a modern car.
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| chucky | -- 06-02-2023 @ 5:25 AM |
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Thanks for all of your help guys. I will try all suggestions
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