| scubachief60 | -- 04-07-2023 @ 4:50 AM |
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I just pulled the dome cover on a horn motor and before experimenting I thought I'd ask where to connect the wire or wires. I am restoring my 1935 Model 48 as stock 6V positive ground. I have read that It may be grounded thru the fender support and so would need only the neg wire connected to the horn. So, my question is where is this connect made to the horn motor under the dome cover? I see two screws that look suspect on the part near the horn points... but I am guessing. I appreciate your help. Thanks (Picture of horn motor posted). A secondary question - I have a Sparton CL-4 and a Sparton CL-6 horn. Can these be used together?
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| kirkstad | -- 04-07-2023 @ 7:47 AM |
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If you page one or two pages on the forum you will see a question on 36 horns by "Erbleding" a short time ago, which includes a number of pictures that might help. Frank.
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| scubachief60 | -- 04-07-2023 @ 8:02 AM |
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Hello Frank... I did see those and it looks like two wires and also looks as though loosening the two screws on the part containing the horn points may allow a proper two wire connection since there are metal plates separated by insulting inserts (and the two connections from the capacitor is separated on each side by one of the stacked insulators). I imagine that will be my answer. Just want to see if anyone out on the forum can confirm. It's cold an rainy in NC this weekend so I may experiment a bit. Happy Easter to you and thanks for the reply!
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| scubachief60 | -- 04-07-2023 @ 10:50 AM |
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Well my experiment was a bust. I attempted to sound the horns using jumpers directly to my 6 volt battery and got no sound (see diagrams posted here of what I tried... and I grabbed the 'under the dome' image from another post on this forum). Maybe I have a bad coil. Suggestions welcomed. The seller advised that they both work.
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| 3w2 | -- 04-07-2023 @ 3:45 PM |
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The horn in the second photo (from the previous thread) should not be used as anything but as an example of amateur soldering. The horn wiring harness wire ends originally had bullet tips which were inserted into each side of the two-sided clip with the rivet in the center in the lower left corner of your photo. The horns are grounded back up the steering column via the horn button.
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| scubachief60 | -- 04-07-2023 @ 4:00 PM |
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Thanks... I'll give it another try with your suggestion.
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| scubachief60 | -- 04-07-2023 @ 4:04 PM |
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Any idea what the points gap setting should be on the Sparton GL-6 and GL-4?
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| scubachief60 | -- 04-08-2023 @ 3:13 AM |
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After looking over the replies once more... I have it! The Sparton GL-4 and the GL-6 that I have... has a metal clip that is the connection point for the wiring (see photo). Horns are working good now. RE: Adjusting the points, I also have this: "The points don't have an exact setting but it is about 1/16 of an inch when the armature (the oblong laminated flat plate) is pushed down. With an air gap under the pushed down armature of 28 thou using your feeler gauge." Thank you all!
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| scubachief60 | -- 04-08-2023 @ 7:10 AM |
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Turns out I have one other discovery that may help someone down the line... The points I was able to adjust with trial and error. I bridged the gap at the points with a needle tool while the horn was powered up... and then adjusted the points in this manner so that the horn sounded immediately after power was supplied and I found a bit of tone adjustment here too by doing so.
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