| martin.scheffer@gmail.com | -- 08-23-2022 @ 10:37 AM |
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Recent purchase of a '41. Drove it around before purchase then trucked to my house where I drove it into the garage. A week later it would not start. Good spark so likely gas problem. Blew out copper line to tank. Could hear it bubbling in fresh tank of gas. Disassembled full filter bowl which contained no sediment of any consequence, replaced screen and gasket, disconnected fuel line at carb. Still unable to draw gas. Disassembled fuel pump only to find it in excellent appearance, but rebuilt anyway with clear pumping sound during bench check. Withdrew pump rod which looked in good condition and exactly the same length as a new one I had ordered just in case. Checked pump rod operation showing up/down motion. Left fuel line disconnected from carb and tried to pump some gas out of a can into which I had placed the end of the short rubber gas line leading to glass sediment bowl with absolutely no success. Any suggestions? Wits End This message was edited by martin.scheffer@gmail.com on 8-23-22 @ 11:15 AM
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-23-2022 @ 11:52 AM |
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Hi Martin, welcome to the EFV8 Club forum! From your intro, it sounds like you know your way around the old car hobby, so just a refresher might get you on the road again ! I’ll hit the high points and you can check off the items completed. Gas cap vented. Gas tank clean. Pickup tube functional. Air tight fuel line connections. Flex line functional. Gaskets air tight. Diaphragm and check valves functional. All of the above items are suspect until proven good. Your pump will not draw if there is an air leak, a stuck check valve, or a blockage in the line. Narrow it down and prove each item to find the solution, starting at the pump function itself, draw fuel from and to clear bottles, bypassing all possibles down the line, the first of which being gaskets and connections, and the flex line, which may collapse internally, blocking flow. Bob Shewman sells fuel resistant flex lines, his ad to be found in the V8 Times. Get the one without the check valve, you’ll need a spare anyway. Alan
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| JT Ford | -- 08-23-2022 @ 12:58 PM |
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If it had set a week or more it might have started if you had poured gas into the top of the carb.... OR maybe you didn't crank it long enough, it takes time to get gas into the carb if the gas has leaked out or evap0rated.. Rather than crank it and crank it I always pour a some in the top.
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| martin.scheffer@gmail.com | -- 08-23-2022 @ 1:25 PM |
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Thanks for your quick response Alan. Could not resist the purchase. Bought my first car in 1953. One just like this, even the same color. It also stopped running fairly soon thereafter. Towed to the garage, where the mechanic handed me a distributor condenser similar to the culprit. It had a full charge. WOW a good jolt. Never forget that moment. Some excellent check off points. I think I am down to fuel line connections and gaskets air tight. I tried drawing gas from the end of the flex line connected to the pump filter bowl - with the line from pump to carb disconnected no success at all. I checked the flex line and it is clear and can see light through it. It appears to be rather new and quite stout with shiny metal ends, however it still could collapse. I think it has got to be either in the fuel pump (which seems hard to believe given that the one I took apart was in quite good condition and very clean, AND then I rebuilt it anyway. So two failures in a row seems a low priority. That leaves the push rod, but the rod was in excellent condition and exactly the same length as a new one I had ordered for this year model. I don't think I could have replaced the rod and its housing wrongly (I did not look very closely at it when I pulled the rod and housing up and out, but it seems to go back only one way, and it moved up and down when cranking)
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-23-2022 @ 1:42 PM |
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Martin, crank the rod to the up position, and place the pump onto it. That will ensure correct positioning of the rod into the lever cup. You'll have to compress the assembly to install the mounting bolts, but you'll know you got it placed right. Pump gaskets are notorious for leaking air. Use oil soaked cork rather than neoprene, and ensure edges are well placed before tightening secure, but not overtight. You might need to prime the pump to get the check valves to working for you. Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 08-23-2022 @ 1:57 PM |
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Did you check to see if there is an inline filter somewhere in the gas line?
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| martin.scheffer@gmail.com | -- 08-23-2022 @ 3:00 PM |
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I remember doing that as a kid, and so did a lot of others. Always been spooked by a possible backfire. You have helped build my confidence - nothing ventured......
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| martin.scheffer@gmail.com | -- 08-23-2022 @ 3:26 PM |
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Thanks for the good info. I placed the pump arm in the housing and then both down over the rod onto the engine. I had to hold the housing down to bolt it down. I was pleased to feel the tension from that little spring. I am going to recheck screw tightness on the fuel pomp cover and take out the cork gasket from the filter bowl and work a bit of oil into it. I read to "prime the pump." I assume that means to get some gas into the pump. This could be hard to do without taking the pump off as the fuel entry is through the attached fuel filter bowl housing. Will further investigate this idea as a last resort should it come to it.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-23-2022 @ 5:11 PM |
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Martin, By priming, I meant that the check valves may be stuck from being dry. Just wet them with a little gas while you have the pump top off. Take care with that single top hold down screw, as it will strip out with excess pressure. That gasket and the filter bowl gasket are critical for operation, sealing being kind of a Goldilocks Just Right rather than tight as h*ll. Alan
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 08-24-2022 @ 6:43 AM |
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Ck the hose from the end of the fuel line to the fuel pump. Paul in CT
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| 1942deluxe | -- 08-24-2022 @ 7:42 AM |
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This may or may not apply to your situation. My car would not run unless gas was poured into the carburetor. Put a fitting on the end of the rubber hose coming off the fuel pump and ran a rubber gas line to a fuel can. Car started and ran at that point. That told me the fuel pump and carburetor were not the issue. After a very close inspection of the metal fuel line going to the tank I found a wet spot behind one of the clips that holds it to the frame. Replaced the metal fuel line and no issues since. I had tried blowing air thru the line and there didn't seem to be any obstruction. As previously stated any loose fittings or crack/ pinhole in the fuel line can be an issue. Let us know what fixes the problem for you!
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| martin.scheffer@gmail.com | -- 08-25-2022 @ 4:13 PM |
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My thanks to all of y0u who contributed your time and expertise to helping me solve the problem of getting gas to the carb. I took the advise of many of you and the collective contributions finally worked the breakthrough came from pouring about a shot glass of gas down the carb. This was enough to make it run for a few seconds. I did this for about 10 times spurred on after about the first 5 times by noticing that the filter bowl was filling up. Finally we were up and running. There is no comparison between cranking the gas through and running it through!!!
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| metalart | -- 08-25-2022 @ 5:15 PM |
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Hi Martin, While it seems like it might be pump valve related in your case, I'd like to pass on how I dealt with my similar problem in the hope it might help you. I cut a piece of inner tube with the valve stem located in the middle, then wrapped it around the petrol tank filler tube and clamped it with a screw drive clamp. I then gently put air into the valve stem, inflating the fuel tank slightly. The using a plastic spray bottle filled with soapy water, I sprayed the entire fuel line, pump etc. Any leaks show up as soap bubbles. I found two in my case. I hope this may be of some use in the future. Regards, Metalart.
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| 1942deluxe | -- 08-26-2022 @ 7:37 AM |
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Glad you got it running!
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| martin.scheffer@gmail.com | -- 08-27-2022 @ 7:04 AM |
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Great idea, simple but elegant, thanks
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