| BRL | -- 08-09-2022 @ 8:24 AM |
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Hi Guys: My car is 1937 Phaeton, model 78-750. I just bought a new fuel tank that is a Bob Drake p/n 78-9002 from a well known vendor who claims the 1937 OEM sender will fit this reproduction tank. My fuel sender wont fit in the hole of the tank. My sender is part number 01A-9275-A1, so I am thinking that my sender is probably for a 1940 model car, but fits in my original 1937 tank. I am guessing my original sender for my car should have been p/n 68-9275 or 78-9275. Can anyone tell me if there is a dimensional difference between the 01A-9275-A1 sender and the 78-9275 sender where it has to fit in the tank hole? See attached photos of my fit problem. Hole diameter in my original tank is 1.875 inch, hole in new tank is 1.720 inch, interfering diameter of sender is 1.807 inch. I know people have grinded the opening larger but I dont want to make any mods until I understand exactly what the problem is concerning sender part numbers and dimensional differences.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 08-09-2022 @ 10:49 AM |
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If you read Drakes ad, the tank requires their sending unit. I understand the original Ford unit will fit if you grind the tank opening larger. If you go that route be sure to remove all the metal filings before installing the tank. I would also measure the flange and screw hole to be certain they line up.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-09-2022 @ 11:03 AM |
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Do not even think about buying the new sender. Nothing but problems and a gaurantee that you will want to go back to the original sender. Alan
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-09-2022 @ 11:14 AM |
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fuel tank problems, did you install the new one yet , I heard it can be a problem and is the filller neck the same ? the original sending unit fit 1937 to 1955 you had to bend the rod to match the one you took out, I would have repaired the original fuel tank. so evertying would FIT CORRECTLY, if you have the original tank take to a radiator repair shop and let them soak in there bath to clean then use EASTWOODS, CLEANER etch and then the special sealer for the new gas, have done this many times, Hope this helps, 37Ragtopman
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| trjford8 | -- 08-09-2022 @ 11:39 AM |
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In addition to the sender not fitting in the hole you may have to redrill the tank for the mounting holes for the sender. Does your new tank have 5 mounting holes or six, or maybe both for the sender? If it has both sets you are in luck. If it only has the 5 then you will also have to redrill the mounting holes for the original sender. I suspect Drake tells you to use their sender because there are only 5 mounting holes.
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| BRL | -- 07-07-2023 @ 9:08 AM |
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Hi Guys: So I ended up sending back the Drake fuel tank to the parts supplier who gave me all my money back with some encouragement from my credit card company. So I still had my OEM tank which was still rusty after a cleaning from my local tank cleaner. I took the tank back to them and asked them if they could get the tank CLEAN. They said they would try. So they worked it over with 3 more acid soakings and it was finally clean. They developed 2 pin hole leaks in the process that they had to repair. So I finally had my OEM tank back after $150+$350=$500. I then made a tank spinner with an engine stand and spare wood so I could coat the inside of the tank and paint the outside. See photo. I used the KBS Tanks sealer kit since I thought it was the best on the market from my internet searches and testimonials. I went to great pain to plug all the holes and the fill tube at the bottom of the tank. I had to buy a 16" hemostat to be able to get a plug into the fill tube opening at the bottom of tank...I had to remove it before the KBS totally set up. For the outside of the tank, I phosphatized it (all the tin-lead plating is gone now) with the Eastwood product and then primed and painted it with the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint and primer. So I finally have a restored tank. After installation I filled it and with a restored sending unit, rebuilt carb, rebuilt fuel pump it started right up and all is well and ready for another 25 years.
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