| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-07-2022 @ 9:08 PM |
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Hello I just purchased a 1935 Ford and I plan on using this as a daily commuter. I seem to be having a problem with the carburetor it backfires at speeds above 40 and it appears to be quite gutless. If I give it a little choke the backfiring ceases. These brakes are hydraulic I do not know if they are self adjusting. The radio does not function I am not sure how to repair it.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-08-2022 @ 5:26 AM |
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The original Carb for the 35 is the Stromberg 48, what Carb. do you have? The Mfg and the model are usually embossed in the metal. Post a photo or two here. Have you put a vacuum gauge on the engine while at idle? What are the results? A vacuum leak will cause the engine to run lean and better when the choke is pulled out.
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| 51504bat | -- 06-08-2022 @ 6:29 AM |
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See this link about early Ford Hydraulics. They aren't self adjusting. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-with-early-ford-drum.1265094/#post-14494606 ______________ No signature
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| CharlieStephens | -- 06-08-2022 @ 11:38 AM |
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The brakes are probably early Ford hydraulics. Post a picture of the 6 o'clock portion of the backing plates and people will be able to tell you if they are pre or post war. This is important as some parts are different. If they are early Ford hydraulics they are not self adjusting. The attached photo is the '46-'48 style. The pre war brakes would have two threaded studs and nuts coming out in this location. Be sure all 4 are the same or at least the same on each axle. The master cylinder mount is usually the place that things get bad, can you post a photo of yours? Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 6-8-22 @ 6:41 PM
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-09-2022 @ 6:13 PM |
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Many of the original gauges do not function
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-09-2022 @ 6:14 PM |
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These are the brakes that are on the car I do not know if these are the original style shocks.
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| trjford8 | -- 06-10-2022 @ 7:22 AM |
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Those brakes are the early style hydraulics. Your shocks are not original. you have an aftermarket conversion to tube shocks. If you are using this car as a daily driver you should be able to get new tube shocks to replace those on the car at Napa Auto Parts.
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| zeke3 | -- 06-10-2022 @ 11:50 AM |
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Your car has 39-41 Lockheed style brakes based on the presence of the two lower adjustment screws shown in the picture.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 06-10-2022 @ 11:50 AM |
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Your brakes are prewar. You can tell because there are two studs and nuts at the 6 o'clock position. The post war backing plates are shown in my previous attached photo.
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| JM | -- 06-10-2022 @ 11:57 AM |
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That carburetor is not a Stromberg, and I believe the carburetor that's on there is subject to blowing power valves if the engine backfires through the carb. Also, that type of air cleaner/filter being used can be very restrictive causing a rich fuel to air mix going into the intake manifold. John This message was edited by JM on 6-10-22 @ 1:49 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-11-2022 @ 5:26 AM |
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JM is correct. Your Carb is the 59 model of the Holley 94. Not the original Stromberg 48. Yes there is a strong chance the power valve is ruptured or the gasket for the power valve is leaking. Max Musgrove is the Stromberg expert and the repair man for Stromberg. Suggest you contact him and see if he has an original 48 embossed 48. He can rebuild it to like new. I also suggest you think of getting the clubs 35-36 restoration book. It can answer many of your future questions. Photo of the original Carb is in the book.
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-13-2022 @ 4:20 PM |
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This vehicle is gutless I have to go to first gear for many hills and sometimes I fear that I may not make it up. At speeds around 40 the engine starts pottering and backfiring until I pull out the choke a little. It seems that the engine may be running warm but I do not know because the temperature gauge does not function. It is almost impossible to get it to higher speeds.
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| carcrazy | -- 06-13-2022 @ 9:27 PM |
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If your car is "gutless", there could be any of several things causing this condition. Check each of the brakes to make sure none of them is dragging excessively. Your fuel pump may be weak and not delivering enough fuel for climbing hills or driving at higher speeds. There may be a partial blockage or leak in you fuel line upstream of the pump allowing a vacuum leak and marginal fuel flow. Your ignition may be marginal due to a weak coil, primary circuit wiring issues, incorrect point gap, incorrect ignition timing issues or partially fouled spark plugs. The vent for your fuel tank may be partially plugged. There could be a mouse nest or other blockage in your exhaust system.
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-15-2022 @ 9:33 PM |
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It backfires out the carb when going downhill or engine braking. I can stop it with the choke. I think it’s a timing problem. How can I adjust the timing. Today I had the brakes serviced at the ford dealership.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-15-2022 @ 11:20 PM |
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You've asked questions and received good answers. Nevermind the timing, just heed the carburetor advise you've been given. And if you went to a Ford Dealership for brake service, good luck on that. Alan
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| JM | -- 06-16-2022 @ 4:17 AM |
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Either you or someone who really knows these flathead engines needs to completely go over that engine, step by step, find out what's wrong and correct those problems. It could be something simple that needs correcting or some combination of things that need attention. If you are a member of the Early Ford V-8 Club, and belong to a regional group, there would be members of that group who would be willing to help you, or recommend someone who can. John This message was edited by JM on 6-16-22 @ 4:19 AM
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-16-2022 @ 6:11 PM |
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I work at the Ford dealership I fix it on my lunch break.
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-16-2022 @ 6:12 PM |
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All my tools are at work. Minus a toolbox that I keep in the trunk.
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-21-2022 @ 5:44 PM |
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I am not sure how to connect the horn rod to the distributor so I can advance the timing. There is a tube that comes from the bottom of the steering box that is hollow. However the steering rod is too wide to fit through the tube. With the tube removed oil will most likely leak out of the steering box.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-21-2022 @ 6:29 PM |
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What have you been smoking? You want to connect the horn rod to the distributor? Alan
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-23-2022 @ 7:54 PM |
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Apparently I have not been smoking the good stuff. I was under the impression that the horn rod controlled the advance. This car is 10 years newer than anything I have worked on in the past. I was not sure what the horn rod is supposed to do. The horn rod will not go all the way down the steering column. There is a tube coming from the bottom of the steering box prevents the rod from protruding out. I also do not know how to hook up the horn to the button.
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-23-2022 @ 7:54 PM |
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I am trying to locate the oil pump. I would like to add a filter.
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| trjford8 | -- 06-24-2022 @ 6:53 AM |
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Have you purchased the V-8 Club's 35-36 Ford book or the V-8 Club's engine book? Both books will help you understand the car and the engine. Obviously you are new to these old Fords and you need all the basic knowledge you can get by reading. It also helps you ask specific questions. Both books mentioned can be purchased in the left menu of this site in the "On-Line Store".
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-28-2022 @ 9:41 PM |
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Yes it’s in the mail.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-29-2022 @ 5:18 AM |
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The horn rod goes from the top of the steering wheel all the way through the steering box and into the light switch, which is mounted to the bottom of the steering box. Turning the center of the steering wheel will turn the horn rod and light switch to various positions to allow high beam headlights, low beam, parking lights an off position. The rod has to be very straight to go through the steering inner column without interfearance. The tube at the bottom of the steering box prevents the lubricant in the box from leaking out. The horn rod can be inserted first and then the plate with the tube can be placed over the rod and bolted to the bottom of the steering box. Make sure the tube is secure in the plate! It is best to solder the tube to the plate to prevent lube leaking into the light switch. The horn rod has a wire through it to contacts at the horn button and at the bottom of the rod (bottom contact shown below). When the horn button is pushed the wire becomes grounded and the ground is applied to the center contact of the light switch where the horn wiring is attached. The horns have battery polarity on one wire and with the second wire becoming grounded the horns are energized. Some people are quick to criticize but don't let that prevent you from asking questions on this form! Many here are willing to assist you.
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-29-2022 @ 10:23 PM |
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Is it possible that the horn rod diameter is too large. I removed the tube from the bottom and was unable to fit it over the horn rod on the bench
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 06-29-2022 @ 10:24 PM |
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I am looking for a temperature gauge mine has broken and leaked all the fluid out
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| carcrazy | -- 06-30-2022 @ 12:11 AM |
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Replacement temperature gauges for 1935 Fords are hard to find. You can have your original gauge rebuilt by Yesteryear Ford Parts at www.yesteryearfordparts.com, Order phone 800-728-0762 or Technical questions phone 517-676-4416.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-30-2022 @ 5:36 AM |
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Horn rod OD=0.370", Tube OD=0.420 and ID=0.395" These measurements are approximate. Look to see if tube is oval or round or if rod is bent or oval. If you have an original temperature gauge it can be rebuilt. Look to John Wolf & Co. in Willoughby , OH Often a poor rebuild and the red liquid will fade to clean when exposed to sunlight. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-30-22 @ 5:45 AM
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| Mpgp1999 | -- 07-13-2022 @ 3:58 PM |
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I am looking for a spare motor to rebuild. It has to be a 35.
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