| rpoole | -- 04-08-2022 @ 7:39 AM |
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I have an opportunity to buy a 1934 V8 pickup, but I don't know enough about them to know what to look for, much less how much to offer. I am very familiar with Model T Fords, having driven, owned for years, so I know enough to be dangerous - to myself. At this stage, I have only seen pictures. It appears to have a re-spray some years back, but the owner assures me the sheet metal and engine are original, never wrecked, no parts missing, and was running when last parked. That was twenty years ago. If the pictures are accurate, the truck appears to be in excellent condition, even underneath. I will be able to see the truck in person, and I would appreciate advice on things to look for. I doubt I will be able to crank the engine and drive the truck, so I would like to have some idea as to how much it might cost to rebuild the engine, rear-end, etc. Also, I have looked for values across several well-known sites such as Hemmings, etc., but haven't found anything that would give me a feel, so any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.
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| trjford8 | -- 04-08-2022 @ 8:53 AM |
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To get a "relative" idea of prices check e-Bay in the "completed" items. It's the left hand menu after you have done the search for 33-34 pickups. You will see what has sold and those not sold, but with the highest bid attained. "Running when last parked" means nothing and has many meanings. Was it a rebuild or not? Why was it parked and not driven for 20 years? If this pickup has been sitting for 20 years the motor may still be good, but it is a guessing game. You can almost bet the gas tank needs to be cleaned and if it has a hydraulic brake conversion you will need to go through the brake system. I would also suspect the radiator, due to electrolysis, will also need to be cleaned out. Any rubber components such as the flexible fuel line and radiator hoses will probably need to be replaced. Next will be the old tires. By now they will need to be replaced along with the tubes. Todays antique tires are not cheap Check all the body work and look for evidence of repairs, especially the fender beads, bottom of the doors and cab corners. Also check for any evidence of paint blistering/bubbling which will tell you of poor repairs. After you have inspected the pickup get back to us with a photo(s) and tell us what you have observed and the asking price. When buying an old car you want this to be a happy experience and not a regrettable purchase. I hope this gives some points for you to consider and if you have more questions come back to this site. This message was edited by trjford8 on 4-8-22 @ 8:56 AM
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| rpoole | -- 04-08-2022 @ 5:24 PM |
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Many thanks. Excellent advice.
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| 42wagon | -- 04-09-2022 @ 3:25 AM |
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One very important item not mentioned is is there a title for the vehicle and do the numbers on the title match the numbers on the truck. Then truck serial number can be found on the left hand frame rail between the radiator and the cowl. Or if you are lucky on top of the transmission housing. No title? You are asking for a world of headaches that you don't need depending on what state you are in.
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| v8er | -- 04-09-2022 @ 7:02 AM |
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If you list your location, there may be a knowledgeable V8er nearby who would look at the truck with you. As a newbie, you need to be aware that there are many more vehicles available than you would think. Only you can decide if you want a '34 pickup specifically, or do you want a nice V8 of any one of several years?
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| rpoole | -- 04-09-2022 @ 2:56 PM |
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Again, more good information. The truck is titled and the numbers match. In fact, the owner has the original title. I live in the Jackson, Mississippi area, and would love to talk with a local V8er. Definitely want a V8 1/2 ton truck. Anyone know offhand if the rear drive ratio is different than '34 cars?
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| 3w2 | -- 04-10-2022 @ 5:47 AM |
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The original '34 passenger car and commercial vehicle rear axle ratios were normally the same.
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| wmsteed | -- 04-11-2022 @ 10:40 AM |
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Buying a vehicle that has not ran for twenty years can be nothing but problems from one end to the other. The common saying, "ran when I parked it" is as old as the hills. I recently purchased a '53 that had not ran since 1994, a period of 27 years. The car was claimed to be a running driving car that needed some maintenance. It started and ran out of the trailer, died before we could get it in the yard.The car had 77, k on the odometer. It cost me almost $3,000. to get the car running, new fuel tank, and lines/hoses, radiator & hoses. fuel pump, rebuild the carb, rebuilt distributor, spark plugs and wires, new brakes, shocks and tires. So far I have not driven the car anywhere except around the yard. My advise would be to buy a running driving vehicle that only needs a little TLC. I am not unhappy with the '53 I bought a twin to this car in 1954, had it for five years, My wife and I went on our honeymoon in the '53, we drove the car for over 70,k then sold it when I got transferred to Germany, I said many times that if I ever found a '53 that was a twin to the one we had, I would buy it.. The one I bought is an unmolested car, original upholstery etc., that had been repainted once prior to 1994. Old Car Value Guide... low.. #6 $1,120. #5 3,480 average $2,300. Number 6 is parts car, #5 needs complete restoration of body, chassis, etc, may or may not be running. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe This message was edited by wmsteed on 4-11-22 @ 10:51 AM
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