Topic: Power rack and pinion


34 Coupe    -- 02-10-2022 @ 6:28 AM
  I'm building a 34 coupe. I am using a 34 frame and front axle . I would like to go with rack and pinion rather than 34 steering. Can anyone see any problems I might encounter.
I chose a ford 302 for my engine, there is no clearance between oil pan and frame cross member for tie rod.
Thanks


TomO    -- 02-10-2022 @ 6:35 AM
  Your question is a good one and one that would probably get a more knowledgeable response on the HAMB. People on that Forum are into modified cars, while this Forum is more for the stock 1932-1953 Ford cars.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/the-hokey-ass-message-board.5/

Tom


34 Coupe    -- 02-10-2022 @ 12:08 PM
  Thanks. I googled "HAMB" and It seems google is as clueless as I am. Please be more specific


carcrazy    -- 02-10-2022 @ 2:10 PM
  There were several different oil pans available from the factory for the 302 cu in V-8 to allow it to fit into the various Ford products in which it was used. Some of the pans had dual sumps to allow the front crossmember to fit under the engine. Perhaps one of these pans would allow you to have the tie rod pass under the engine.


40FConvt    -- 02-10-2022 @ 4:27 PM
  Try jalopyjournal.com

Regards Eddie


pauls39coupe    -- 02-10-2022 @ 8:01 PM
  As I recall mounting a rack and pinion to the chassis leads to crazy bump steer with a straight axle. If the gear is fixed to the chassis and the axle moves up and down, the spindles will move side to side, toe way in or toe way out, at every bump. That can make it hard to go down the road straight.
If you mount the rack and pinion to the axle, then you need a series of flex joints to connect the rack to the steering column. As the axle bounces up and down those joints will wear out quickly.
Manufacturers use rack and pinion steering on late model cars because it works well with IFS, fits in small spaces, and is cheap to make.
If you are dead set on using rack and pinion steering, it works best with a complete independent front suspension. There are several aftermarket manufacturers who make conversions for early Fords.


carcrazy    -- 02-10-2022 @ 8:29 PM
  If you want to use a rack & pinion steering system with a solid front axle, you can use a Unisteer system which mounts the rack to the L.H. frame rail behind the axle and uses a draglink to connect to the R.H. steering arm which has two holes. The tierod mounts in the front hole while the draglink mounts in the second hole. When using this system, locate the rack so that the draglink and the tie rod are parallel to each other to minimize bumpsteer.

This message was edited by carcrazy on 2-10-22 @ 8:35 PM


51504bat    -- 02-10-2022 @ 8:44 PM
  Good suggestion about the HAMB. If you do join make sure you read the rules and do an intro before posting. Lots of real hot rod knowledge but some of the members can be shall I say a bit rough around the edges. You might also get some suggestions over on the Ford Barn.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4

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trjford8    -- 02-11-2022 @ 6:13 AM
  Years ago I built a '32 roadster( fiberglass car) and a repo frame. At that time I used a 68-70 Mustang steering box that was mounted on the frame with a special bracket. The pitman arm on the box was mounted in the upward position and the drag link went to the left front spindle with another arm that bolted to the spindle. This system worked very well. As I recall it was an idea from Pete and Jake's.


TomO    -- 02-11-2022 @ 8:20 AM
  34Coupe, click on the link in my previous post to get to the HAMB.

Tom


pauls39coupe    -- 02-11-2022 @ 2:30 PM
  Car Crazy is right about the Unisteer which replaces the drag link. The problem I have seen is getting them low enough to be even with the tie rod. Depending on the car, it may hang way below the frame.
As has been suggested the Mustang unit fits much better.


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