| 51woodie | -- 01-21-2022 @ 11:32 AM |
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Shortly after getting my stock "46 Super Deluxe Coupe, the brakes started dragging. I put the car up on stands to check all the wheels for free rotation, and the right rear was the culprit. First check, was for slack in the E-brake cable.......lots of slack. Off with the wheel, and the drum could only be turned by levering it with a pry bar. Beat the rim of the drum with a 5lb dead blow, urethane hammer...... no luck. So, out with the angle grinder and Zip-cut wheel. Several cuts later, I had the drum off. The problem, was that both pistons in the wheel cylinder were seized, holding pressure on the drum. The end result was having to buy a new drum, and in the end, decided to go with Boling Brothers brake kits front and back. I know it's not "stock" anymore, but they work great, and all new parts. The question is..... did I miss a way to remove the drum without surgery?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-21-2022 @ 4:40 PM |
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HI was there a better way,? did you try to back off on the brake adjustments first, this usually works,,? or loosen up the wheel cylinder and try to move it, I just did this on a BMW ISSETA this summer, to free up the brake drum to rotate it my 2 cents 37Ragtopman , MAINE
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 01-21-2022 @ 4:57 PM |
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I gotta agree with ragtop and I would have removed the brake line and then unbolt the wheel cylinder. If the drum was turning, then no telling how much additional play you would get with the wheel cylinder unbolted. "Monday morning quarterbacking", too late now!
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| JM | -- 01-21-2022 @ 9:42 PM |
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I probably would have tried the things that have already been mentioned by others here to free up the drum as much as possible. Then use a KR Wilson type hub/drum puller to pull the hub & drum assembly off the tapered axle. I would have exhausted all possiblities of getting that drum off before cutting it off. John
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| 51woodie | -- 01-28-2022 @ 1:22 PM |
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I did back off the mid shoe cam style adjusters, but still too tight. The shoes are mounted on non adjustable anchors at the lower end, so nothing there. I hadn't thought about loosening the wheel cylinder bolts. That may have worked. One of my car buddies suggested heating the perimeter of the drum to expand it, but I passed on that idea. I hadn't thought about a hub puller (which I have) but thinking on it, the shoes would not have slipped sideways in the drum, due to the ridge on the outer edge of the shoe path.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 01-30-2022 @ 9:55 AM |
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Maybe I missed something but did you try to use a good hub puller on the hub/drum? The reproduction KRW one seems to be the best. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 1-30-22 @ 9:56 AM
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| 51woodie | -- 01-30-2022 @ 10:40 AM |
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Charlie. The drum on my '46 can be removed from the hub, if the shoes are backed off. I have a Vintage Precision hub puller, but I couldn't pull the drum, so pulling the hub and drum together wouldn't work. That is why I cut it off and replaced it.
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